Review: Smokeye Hill Bourbon

Smokeye Hill appeared on our bourbon radar seemingly overnight. The buzzy new brand that launched last year takes its name from a rugged Arizona cattle ranch famous for bootlegging during Prohibition. Owners Hazelwood Spirits Company have family ties to the land, but they chose to produce their bourbon in Indiana and Colorado.

The bourbon is distilled in Lawrenceburg (most likely by MGP) from a four-grain mashbill of yellow corn, rye, malted barley, and heirloom blue corn, a nod to the brand’s southwest origins that reportedly makes up more than 50% of the recipe. Aging occurs in Colorado Springs in a mix of 30- and 53-gallon barrels with varying char levels from No. 2 to No. 5, presumably giving blenders quite a bit of barrel variation to work with.

At present, the portfolio consists only of a standard straight bourbon, and an unfiltered, small batch barrel proof. Both are aged at least five years. We’ll eventually explore the higher-octane offering, which has gotten the lion’s share of accolades, but today we’ve got thoughts on the entry-level expression.

Smokeye Hill Straight Bourbon Whiskey Review

The nose is a bit youthful but still layered and generous with barrel notes. Top notes of creamed corn, blue corn chips, and chewy caramel are more savory than sweet with soft undertones of seasoned oak and vanilla bean. A gently sweet, bready character develops as it opens, almost like a cake donut with a bit of cinnamon sugar.

The palate showcases an impressively thick, round mouthfeel that nicely compliments a rich butterscotch pudding note that is, like the aroma, more savory than sweet. That buttery, creamy element dominates across the sip, allowing only glimmers of wood sugar, dried fruit, and cocoa powder that hint at a more traditional sweetness but never really deliver. A bit of barrel char and mild black pepper add some energy to the midpalate before a warm, silky finish of brown butter, caramel corn, and baking spice.

The unusual dryness in this whiskey will likely be polarizing. Still, the remarkable texture makes it engaging despite the lack of bigger, sweeter flavors. In a sugary whiskey cocktail like an Old Fashioned, it does wonders for balance.

93 proof.

B+ / $70 [BUY IT NOW FROM FROOTBAT]

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