Review: Remus Master Distiller Experimental Series No. 1

Ross & Squibb Master Distiller Ian Stirsman has already proven he knows how to blend a great bourbon (Repeal Reserve being a particular favorite), but he hasn’t had the chance to really innovate much in Lawrenceburg. That appears to be changing now with the launch of a new experimental series from the distillery that will reportedly explore different grains, recipes, and maturation techniques.

The first in this line is described by Ross & Squibb as a “happy accident,” although I’m not sure how you accidentally age a bourbon for nine years in French oak barrels. And not just any French oak. Seguin Moreau in Napa, California assembled each cask with staves cut from 200-year-old trees that were first air-dried for 24 months before being lightly charred and heavily toasted. Let’s check it out.

Remus Master Distiller Experimental Series No. 1 Review

The aroma is dry and woody with dark baking spice, barrel char, and seasoned oak. As it opens, more exotic wood notes arrive with a bit of cigar box and sandalwood, even some teak oil. Laced throughout is a creamy milk chocolate element that offers the only real signs of sweetness, accentuating some of the wood sugars as things bloom in the glass.

On the palate, that austerity is largely absent with a silky entry of caramelized sugar, turbinado, and cinnamon syrup. It’s round and mouthcoating and nicely balanced. The midpalate is oak-driven but still gently sugary with vanilla bean and cocoa powder notes that give way to pralines, chocolate fudge, and clove on a generous, warming finish. For an experimental bourbon, especially an “accidental” one, it’s quite the success.

107 proof.

A- / $80

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