Trulussó is a new ultra-premium tequila brand based in Houston and produced at the Feliciano Vivanco distillery, with Master Tequilero Sergio Cruz at the helm. Officially launched this year after four years in the works, the operation takes a hybrid approach melding tradition with modern techniques to craft three expressions designed to keep you on your toes.

We’ll cover each expression in turn; all are packaged in over-sized decanters crafted from painted glass. Thoughts follow.

All are 80 proof. NOM 1414.

Trulosso Tequila Blanco Review

Clean and very lighthanded, extremely mild on the nose with light notes of lemon and lime peel, a quick grind of white pepper, and a touch of fresh greenery. There’s no fire at all to be found here, either on the nose of the palate, which continues the theme with a body that is so quiet it almost comes across as watery. That makes for a dangerous “sipping” tequila as it goes down with utter abandon, continuing the notes visible on the nose — namely lemon — and compounding them with gentle touches of vanilla and caramel sauce. Creamy and seductive, it’s as versatile as vodka in any cocktail you might choose to whip up. A- / $129

Trulosso Tequila Reposado Review

Aged in American white oak bourbon barrels for 8 months. Very pale in color, and moderately sweet on the nose, showcasing vanilla, tres leches cake, and caramel, followed by notes of baking spice — particularly nutmeg and ground ginger, then butterscotch. Again very sweet on the palate, you could easily be tricked into believing this was an anejo, delving into notes of maple, bittersweet chocolate, and plenty more caramel. A surprising grittiness builds on the toasty finish, a savoriness emerging that tempers at least some of the sugar and confectionary notes. Drink it as an anejo. B+ / $149

Trulosso Tequila Anejo Review

Aged 18 months in French oak barrels (previous use, if any, is unknown). Very unusual, with a nose of green pepper, sage, and herbes de provence, backed up with hints of sharp gunpowder and well-toasted oak. There’s sweetness evident, but it’s layers down, beneath the significant, herbal punch. On the palate, things only get more confusing. Notes of dark sesame oil, chocolate, and again a caramel-vanilla note emerge, but they’re kept in check by a gravelly coffee quality and a reprise of barrel influence. Ultimately it’s less sweet than the reposado, which is confusing but not unwelcome, as it allows the natural herbaceousness of the agave to show its face more clearly. Never harsh and invariably creamy throughout, it takes a lovely little journey en route to a peppery conclusion. Also drink as an anejo. A- / $179

trulusso.com

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