Review: Port Askaig 17 Years Old

It has been a minute since we last looked in on Port Askaig, an independently bottled blend of Islay single malts named for the small village on the island’s northern coast (the lesser used of two ferry ports on the island). Apparently, quite a bit has changed, as the brand now boasts an entirely new core range of three expressions: an 8-year-old aged in a variety of casks, a non-age stated cask strength matured in first fill toasted bourbon and refill hogsheads, and this bottle, a 17-year-old expression. This elder Port Askaig is aged 17 long years in American oak casks and arrives as an annual limited edition. Let’s see what this top-of-the-line Port Askaig has to offer, shall we?

The nose is sizable, bold initially with brine and wet smoke. Still, there’s an elegance and richness that makes it impressively inviting, unfurling with notes of toasted marshmallow, grilled lemon, coal ash, and sea foam. Undertones of graphite and river rocks add a bit of minerality, but an airy sweetness – saltwater taffy and spun sugar – keep the aroma silky and soft.

On the palate, things are rather green initially for such a mature malt, with a wave of pickling spices and a bit of bell pepper. It’s not a setback, however, only something to further pique a drinker’s interest, and it recedes quickly for the most part to reveal lush, dark notes of cocoa powder and overcooked caramel. A smack of sweet lemon drops candy arrives on the midpalate, adding some brightness, while accents of saline, oyster brine, and bonfire embers return things to the iconic Islay coast. The finish is long with ashy smoke, white pepper, and dark clover honey. Exceptional stuff and a fitting top shelf for Port Askaig’s latest core lineup.

101 proof.

A / $170 [BUY IT NOW FROM FROOTBAT]

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