Review: 2022 Esporao Monte Velho Reserva Red

Monte Velho (“mon-tay vell-yo”) translates from Portuguese to English as “old hill,” a reference to the grassy mound Herdade do Esporão’s estate capped by a 12th-century fortress. Esporão also remains one of the largest producers of organic wine in Portugal and on the continent and invests heavily in eco-friendly, sustainable practices—a noble and admirable pursuit while the Earth continues to burn.

Monte Velho is Esporão’s value line, with this blend of Aragonez, Trincadeira, Syrah, and Touriga Nacional presenting dark berry and plum aromas before carrying forward to a palate with rather jammy qualities. Eventually, notes of baking spice cut through to provide some balance, and the heavy oak on the finish keeps things from spiraling out of control.

To call Monte Velho Reserva Red a one-note affair would be misleading, as the darker fruit marathon does an excellent job sharing the spotlight and never veers into offensive or off-putting territory. It is straightforward, serviceable, and versatile enough to serve as a proper table wine for a dinner of savory small plates, and there is plenty of value and enjoyment compensating for the lack of complexity.

B / $14 / esporao.com

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