Review: Conte Camillo Negroni
Mack Brands, purveyor of Finvara Irish Whiskey and Tequila Rosaluz, recently launched a new offering in the States: A bottled Negroni made from authentic ingredients. It’s described as a “meticulous balance of gin, vermouth, and bitters, with each ingredient sourced and treated to ensure authenticity” and boasts the use of “pure, mineral-rich water from the Acqueverdi waterfall, wild juniper berries harvested at high altitudes, and an enchanting mix of local alpine herbs” in its creation, direct from Italy.
At the very least, the product looks great, packaged in a blood red bottle that mimics a Doric column. But how does it taste when it’s out of the bottle and in your glass? Let’s find out.
The nose is spot-on, offering a bright, Campari-adjacent character that evokes thoughts of bitter herbs, rhubarb, and a punch of bright citrus peel. A spray of both green and peppery herbs makes for an effusive start, really setting up an authentic Negroni experience.
Unfortunately, my enchantment faded on first sip, where it became immediately obvious to me that there was just too much vermouth in the recipe — or perhaps just not the right vermouth. Very doughy and gummy up front, the vermouth steals the show right away and creates an almost rubbery chewiness on the tongue that strikes as a bit astringent at times. A brief flash of citrus, some chocolate, and even some saline liven things up, but they quickly dissipate on a finish that again leans heavy into the vermouth element. On the fade-out, the experience continues the theme, returning to a gummy, mouth-coating texture that’s hard to shake.
It’s better when doctored with extra Campari or citrus, but if you’re going to go to that kind of trouble, you may as well make one from scratch.
60 proof.
B / $35
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