Review: Iichiko Special Shochu

Shuchu is still tentatively making its way to U.S. shores and U.S. palates, but it isn’t often when we encounter aged versions. Iichiko is the top-selling brand of shochu in Japan (much in the way that Jack Daniel’s is the top selling whiskey in the U.S.), and it’s probably the top-selling brand of shochu here, too.

This new expression is the first Iichiko expression in the U.S. that has been aged and in fact, Iichiko Special is dual-cask aged, using both American oak and sherry casks. Some details:

At 30% abv, iichiko Special is made from 100% two-row barley and fermented with koji, the traditional ingredient behind Japanese foods famous for umami, like miso and soy sauce. The spirit offers a round, subtle, and smooth feel on the palate and a complex, broad, and slightly savory nose, complimented by a balanced oak presence and spicy vanilla notes that pair with the base spirit, revealing long-lasting chocolate notes for a powerful finish. The spirit’s unique, complex flavor comes from a five to seven-year aging process within both American white oak casks and sherry casks.

“iichiko is thrilled to introduce our latest expression to the American market,” says Ken Oka, Manager of US Operations at iichiko Shochu. “This unique expression of shochu is unlike any other on the market currently. Aged for five years to seven years in both sherry and oak casks, the spirit boasts a complex, layered, whiskey-like profile alongside savory, umami notes typically found in shochu.”

The expression is certainly unique for the category, approximating a lighter style of whiskey somewhat more closely than a simple substitute for vodka. Approximating being the keyword, of course. The nose here features overtones of mushrooms and leather, then burnt sage and black pepper notes. That may not sound particularly whiskeylike, but there’s a certain frontier quality to the drink that evokes a “brown spirit” sensation, at least aromatically. On the palate, some sweetness emerges, though it’s restrained and a little vegetal. More mushroom, some carrot, and a dusting of green onion make for quite a savory experience, but flashes of baked sweet potato, applesauce, and toasted sesame at least hint at tempering the more earthy attack. Any sense of sherry here clings closely to the nutty, leathery side of the fence; those looking for a strong citrus element will be disappointed. On the finish: Healthy punches of powdered mushroom and some seaweed keep the experience well-grounded in the often funky world of shochu.

The whiskey producers of the world have nothing to fear from Iichiko Special replacing their beloved category any time soon, but curious drinkers looking for a lower abv experience alongside something that clings more closely to the earth but still evokes a sense of wood may find this appealing. That said, there’s just not enough character to merit straight sipping, but it could make waves with the right combination of exotic cocktail ingredients.

60 proof.

B- / $65 / iichiko.com 

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