Review: 2021 Hillick & Hobbs Estate Dry Riesling Seneca Lake New York

Paul Hobbs is a globetrotting, California-based winemaking bigshot, so naturally you’ll find his most expensive and ambitious winery project to date… in New York’s Finger Lakes region.

Hillick & Hobbs is a riesling (and only riesling) producer on the southeastern banks of Seneca Lake, where this grape thrives. We don’t get much New York wine to sample, so I was excited to give it a whirl.

True to form, it’s a bright, classic expression of riesling grown next to the largest of the Finger Lakes: Steely, salty, and laced with minerals, this 12% abv wine showcase notes of white grapes, gooseberry, golden raisin, and Meyer lemon — all quite clean — but laced throughout with the lightest hint of petrol. The lightest touch of sweet Sauternes gives the finish a surprising, subtle, late-game sweetness. Extremely versatile.

A- / $35 / hillickandhobbs.com

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