Review: Highland Park Cask Strength Release No. 5

What initially felt like a one-off is now onto its fifth annual release: Highland Park, no age statement, at Cask Strength.

HP has always been a little cagey about what goes into this undiluted bottling, but that’s in part because there’s so much going on. It also changes a little each year. For Release No. 5, the distillery says it “has been matured predominantly in first-fill, sherry-seasoned European oak casks – including Pedro Ximénez casks – plus refill casks, ex-bourbon casks and a small quantity of first-fill, sherry-seasoned American oak casks.”

For comparison, last year the distillery called out Port casks specifically, while this year PX is on tap for the blend. Let’s dig in.

There’s no mistaking the sherry in the mix here, though it definitely comes across as a medley of styles — oloroso and Pedro Ximenez working in tandem on the nose. Bright orange peel notes, smoldering cloves, ample barrel char, and dried cranberry aromas all open the experience. There’s lots of spice here — moving fast from the baking cabinet to red and black pepper — with a light layer of anise spread across the top. A heady punch of eucalyptus, exacerbated by the high abv, lingers in the bowl of a Glencairn.

On the palate, the whisky leans more heavily into its citrus-fueled oloroso qualities, followed by chewy nougat, almond, and baking spice elements. Slightly green as it develops on the tongue, elements of rosemary, sage, and thyme provide a significant savory edge, while a whip of licorice lingers. Racy at full strength, I found this whisky benefitted considerably by a healthy splash of water, which further enhances the fruit elements of the spirit — orangey citrus, then a green banana note. Layered spice elements, closer to tropical in tone, linger on a lengthy finish. Any element of peat in the whisky — always a minor element in any Highland Park release — isn’t readily apparent save for a touch of smoke that lingers on the nose.

Highland Park Cask Strength releases have always been worthwhile, and this fifth expression is no exception to the rule. Get some.

129.4 proof.

A- / $100 [BUY IT NOW FROM FROOTBAT]

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