Review: Laws Bonded Bourbon, Rye, and Wheat Whiskey 7 Years Old (2024)

Denver’s Laws Whiskey House releases bonded versions of three whiskeys each year, and, interestingly, Laws has continued to let them get older and older. Our last encounter, in 2021, was a 6 year old bonded bourbon. Now the trio of whiskeys is up to 7 years of age. When will it end? Who knows? While you ponder that question, consider our coverage of the current bonded lineup, including bourbon, rye, and wheat whiskey.

Thoughts follow.

Each is 100 proof.

Laws Bonded Bourbon 7 Years Old Batch #8 (2024) – As usual, a four-grain bourbon with a mash of 60% corn, 20% heirloom wheat, 20% heirloom rye, and 10% heirloom malted barley. Rather grainier than I was expecting at this age, with a frontier-style nose that evokes aromas of well-charred campfire embers, saddle leather, and fresh green herbs — rosemary and thyme. While the nose is heavy-duty, the palate is even more aggressive, pushing its barrel-driven elements to greater heights. Heavy-char barrel notes and intense greenery are followed by layers of toasted cloves and cinnamon. Dark chocolate rings the edges of the palate, offering a slightly sweet respite from the onslaught of wood and herbs, and the relief is welcome. Notes of walnuts, vanilla Coke, and tobacco cap off the finish. A lot to take in. B

Laws Bonded Rye 7 Years Old Batch #5 (2024) – 100% heirloom rye. Surprisingly sweet on the nose, though the brown sugar character is laced with plenty of dill, lemongrass, and mint. Weird aroma of movie theater popcorn if you really breathe deep. On the palate, the whiskey offers a more traditional big rye character, pungent with notes of tobacco, but laced with sweetening burnt butter elements. Gunpowder, anise, and heavy layers of barrel char dominate, though an odd seaweed character folds in a little salinity as the finish arrives. Husky, dusky, and heavy-duty, so plan accordingly. B

Laws Bonded Wheat Whiskey 7 Years Old Batch #6 (2024) – 100% soft white Centennial spring wheat. My clear favorite of this trio, which came as a huge surprise to me. Lightly peppery on the nose, with aromas of fresh baked bread and a touch of honey on top. Gentle barrel char notes allow ample vanilla and spice to percolate, while keeping the bready overtones front and center. It’s soft on the palate with enduring notes of fresh, toasted bread, followed by a surprising punch of strawberry and some mint. A touch of pumpkin spice hits, visible despite the charry creosote notes that ring the edges of the whiskey, though these keep largely to the background until the toasty finish, where a sustained and refreshing bakery note endures. A-

each $85 / lawswhiskeyhouse.com

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