Review: 2017 Moretti Omero Vignalunga Montefalco Sagrantino DOCG

Remember when albums were released on compact disc, but there would be an additional, unlisted bonus song at the end in the liner notes? That is not what is happening here, but think of this as a bonus track to a recently published survey of Sagrantino wines, and we are waxing nostalgic for the minor quirks physical media used to provide. This bottle shipped separately from the others in the batch and did not arrive until after the roundup’s publishing date.

Much like its regional siblings, this is dense and demanding. Aromas of plum compote and touches of burnt orange peel and cinnamon balance the jammy quality of the plum on the nose. The palate is as complex as I’ve experienced up to this point with Sagrantino, full of licorice and raspberry at first and supported by bright acidity and big tannins that are the hallmark of the varietal. As it evolves, there’s a surprising bit of graphite, dark cherry, black pepper, and a rather large influence of oregano towards the finish to keep things interesting. It’s a commanding, dense wine deserving of a hearty meal or full-bodied cigar as a sparring partner. Consider opening this a few hours in advance of drinking to let it breathe.

B+ / $110 / morettiomero.it

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