Review: Benromach 50 Years Old

Benromach is a distillery that probably feels very new to most drinkers, seeing as its modern era began only in 1998. But Benromach’s history dates back to 1898, changing hands a few times until its closure in 1983. (Today’ Gordon & MacPhail operates the distillery.)

What we have here is perhaps the oldest Benromach ever released, a 50 year old expression distilled on December 13, 1972, aged in sherry casks for the duration of its life — with 15 of those years spent aging during Benromach’s time as a “silent still.” Just 248 bottles were produced, each “presented in unique handcrafted glass decanters created by Ross-shire-based Glasstorm, one of the UK’s most established hot glass studios. Benromach’s handmade ethos and dedication to traditional methods has been echoed by Glasstorm who used a highly skilled ‘battuto’ technique to finish the decanters. This technique is only practiced by master glassmakers with the glass sculpted by hand, making each bottle a unique work of art, long after the last drop of liquid has been savored.”

We graciously received a small sample to explore, and so we did. Thoughts follow.

Fifty years is a long time to spend in a sherry cask, and the bright amber color of the whisky is an immediate clue to what lies ahead. The nose holds nothing back: intensely nutty with the pedal down all the way on sherry, this comes across with an Amontillado austerity — lightly oxidized, with cooked fruits, toasted walnuts, and mushroomy flor all accounted for. A light whiff of smoke (Benromach’s ultra-lightly peated house style on display) lingers in the bowl of the glass, but as it fades it leaves behind some late-game maritime elements normally associated with island whiskies — dried seaweed, sandalwood, and a touch of sea spray.

Ultra-bright sherry notes dominate the palate: orange peel with some lemon elements mixed in, followed quickly by that bold, nutty-woody punch. The impact of the barrel is unmistakable here, evoking rich flavors of toasted staves and vintage spice canisters, meandering its way to paprika and some racy cayenne. A pinch of lemongrass makes for a vaguely Asian quality before the finish moves into  soothing mix of vanilla and lemon peel notes. Ample notes of leather and old books are omnipresent but never overwhelming or austere — any sense of funk comes across as a light reprise of Amontillado.

As expected, it’s excellent stuff: The DNA of Benromach, which can be a little brash, mellowed through decades in the barrel. Note that while the list price is $25,000, it’s readily available online for the bargain price of US$12,000.

109.2 proof.

A / $25,000 / benromach.com

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