Review: Wines of Carpineto, 2019 Vintage
Carpineto is a relative newcomer in Tuscan wine production, dating back to “just” 1967. The winery produces all the classics — Chianti, Brunello, and the like — plus a super-affordable Super Tuscan called Dogajolo, which just celebrated its 30th anniversary. We didn’t get any Dogajolo, but we did get three more readily identifiable releases from the 2019 vintage, all of which are reviewed below.
2019 Carpineto Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG – Fresh and lively, big with cherry notes and not immediately distinguishable vs. a Chianti. (Carpineto is the first winery to produce a 100% sangiovese wine from Montepulciano since 1998.) Over time, the differences evolve. Here there’s more of a bitter, rhubarb-laced edge, and more bittersweet chocolate, which lends the wine a certain sweetness, layered with blackberry. Light notes of anise and some blueberry emerge late in the game, making for a complex, but approachable and food-friendly experience. A- / $36
2019 Carpineto Vino Brunello di Montepulciano DOCG – Surprisingly soft, almost flabby at times, this wine feels doughy and missing some fruit, the expected sharpness and density of a young Brunello replaced by a weighty, earthy quality. Sure, a hint of cherry emerges here and there, but it’s filtered through wood, turned earth, and a bit of a barnyard note. Approachable with food, but desperately in need of some acidity. Maybe an outlier considering the rest of the lineup. B / $72
2019 Carpineto Vino Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG – Tight and tart, this is a classic Chianti Classico, popping with bright red cherry fruit and layered with hints of rosemary and thyme. Fall in a glass, it settles down with 20 or so minutes of airtime, revealing a nutty quality that starts with almond and ventures gently toward sweeter marzipan. A bit gritty on the finish, with some tightly wound tannins and a peppery, gunpowder punch. On point. A- / $28
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