Review: Ventisquero 2019 Vertice and 2019 Obliqua
We’ve visited the wines of Chile’s Ventisquero on many occasions, and today we return to the Colchagua Valley with a look at two recent edition wines from the company.
Fun fact: Did you know that Ventisquero Wine0 Estates involves a collaboration between Australian winemaker John Duval and Ventisquero’s head winemaker, Felipe Tosso? This year they celebrate 20 years of partnership. Here’s a look at two of the four wines they produce together.
2019 Ventisquero Vertice Apalta Vineyard – We’ve seen vintages of this wine dating back to 2006, and only a little seems to have changed since then. Still a roughly 50/50 blend of syrah and carmenere, the wine is dense without being overblown, bright with a core of plums and cherries while laced with notes of pepper. It’s never weighted down by tannin or those beefy notes that syrah can bring to the table, making for a more easygoing and food-friendly experience. Gently spiced on the finish, the wine today shows more acidity than we’re accustomed to seeing in this blend — a great thing that makes for a more versatile experience. Heads up: 2020’s release appears to be changing to a new vineyard while keeping the blend intact. A- / $30
2017 Ventisquero Obliqua Carmenere Apalta Vineyard – Old, 100% carmenere. Unexpected from the start, this wine takes its anise-laced attack and runs with it: heavy cassis, cola, and blackberry, filtered through ample baking spice that gives the wine a cinnamon kick. The palate rolls toward cherry after some time in glass, infused with vanilla and a grind of white pepper. Never beefy or overly woody, this drinks with a seductive fruitiness that clings to dark berries but which makes room for brighter pops of color from time to time. Decanting (or air time) is recommended for it to show its best. Also changing vineyards as of the 2019 release. A- / $60
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