Review: Ex Libris Penderyn Welsh Whisky Collection – 2004, 2009, 2010, and 2012
La Maison & Velier got started with its Ex Libris independently bottled whisky collection last year with a 40 year old Canadian whisky — starting out with a bang, to be sure. Now Ex Libris continues its lineup with a quartet of Welsh Whiskies sourced from Penderyn. Each is a single cask of malted barley whisky, vintage dated, and named in honor of a book that is part of the history of Wales, carrying on the “ex libris” theme.
We got samples of the quartet and consider these tasting notes essential for your reading list.
Ex Libris Penderyn Welsh Whisky Collection 2012 “The Red Book of Hergest” – 11 years old, aged in an oloroso sherry cask. Named for a collection of 14th century prose which celebrated King Arthur. A bit scattered, with a nose of toasted hazelnuts, grapefruit peel, and later some florals that evoke jasmine and honeysuckle, as well as canned pears. The sherry is impossible to miss on the palate, as the combination of nuts and citrus peel smolder, backed up by rolling notes of toasted cloves and nutmeg. Lengthy and quite a hot finish. A sherry finish here might have been preferable. 119.4 proof. B
Ex Libris Penderyn Welsh Whisky Collection 2010 “The Book of Taliesin” – 12 years old, aged in a second fill bourbon barrel. Named for an iconic 14th century manuscript. A gentle giant. Subdued on the nose with notes of almonds and coconut, layered with more austere elements of old books and fresh lumber. The palate sweetens things up with a layer of caramel and vanilla cream, with edges of pear, pineapple, and green apple providing a burst of fruit. Toasty on the finish with a collection of baking spices on display. 120.2 proof. B+
Ex Libris Penderyn Welsh Whisky Collection 2009 “The White Book of Rydderch” – 13 years old, aged in an ex-bourbon cask. Named for more 14th century stories. Surprisingly sweet, notes of glazed almonds and sesame cookies layered on top of overripe fruit, heavy on the banana. The palate is even heavier on the sweet stuff, evoking maple syrup, banana pudding, and rock candy. It’s all more than a little cloying, though this dies down with time in glass and perhaps some water. The finish however remains hard to shake. 117.6 proof. B
Ex Libris Penderyn Welsh Whisky Collection 2004 “The Black Book of Carmarthen” – 19 years old, aged in an ex-bourbon cask. Named for a collection of 9th-12th century Welsh poetry. Buttered toast backed up against a light note of barrel char on the nose. Overripe fruit, ample notes of baking and red pepper spices, and finally plenty of sweetness provide something of a hot honey experience. Racy and spicy on the tongue, the whisky settles into a groove that evokes molasses and gingerbread, building to a conclusion that evokes chocolate sauce and vanilla. One of the most well-rounded Welsh whiskies I’ve experienced to date. 113.2 proof. A-
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