Review: Castello di Gabbiano Chianti Classico 2020 Riserva and 2018 Bellezza
Gabbiano is one of the biggest names in Chianti, widely available internationally, its various expressions ranging from under 10 dollars a bottle to upwards of $200. Today we look at a pair of wholly accessible but high-quality expressions from the Chianti Classico region, both of which should be readily available stateside.
2020 Castello di Gabbiano Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG – Bright and immediately pleasing, this offers a classic Chianti experience with a brisk fruit profile of bold cherry notes tempered by a touch of orange peel, wet leather, and tobacco leaf. Fruit endures above all, however, leaning into sweeter elements over time — strawberry, with hints of blueberry, increasingly jammy as the finish builds. Fortunately, there’s ample acidity here to keep the entire experience balanced and approachable. At this price, it’s an excellent value. A- / $22
2018 Castello di Gabbiano “Bellezza” Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG – Richer and considerably more tannic than the Chianti Classico Riserva, this minor bruiser pours on the cherry notes, here dusted in dark chocolate and tempered notes of vanilla. Here and there a hint of orange oil shows its face. The finish offers a slightly bittersweet punch of rhubarb and some tea leaf, with a whiff of evergreen punctuating the back end. Hearty and dense, and a touch tarry at times, it’s a natural yet affordable pairing for that big Saturday steak dinner. A- / $33
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