Review: Devil’s Foot Non-Alcoholic Craft Sodas

When is a RTD cocktail not a cocktail? When it’s a soda.

These products may have the names of cocktails on the cans, but the non-alcoholic beverages are technically all sodas, as they don’t really pretend to be cocktails but rather fizzy drinks that draw inspiration from boozy drinks.

All are collaborations with breweries, mostly near to Devil’s Foot’s home in the Asheville, NC area. The company makes at least eight varieties — plus various non-cocktail-inspired sodas — and we look at three of the lineup here.

Devil’s Foot Non-Alcoholic Negroni – A collaboration with brewer Burial Beer Co. in Asheville. Ingredients include sour cherry juice, lime juice, orange juice, sugar, citrus zest, and herbs. The pinkish-orange soda is a bit inscrutable, offering light, barely there notes of maraschino juice and a hint of carrot — though honestly, it comes across closer to a flavored sparkling water than anything else. Moderately effervescent and barely bitter, it’s as harmless a soda as I’ve ever had. Add some Campari and it’s not at all bad. B-

Devil’s Foot Non-Alcoholic Dark & Stormy – A collab with Highland Brewing. Made with ginger root, honey, cane sugar, brown sugar (whew!), lime juice, and vanilla bean — and rested on oak. Oak-rested soda’s an interesting thing, but this comes across mostly like a midrange ginger beer (and it can probably be used interchangeably). All the sweetness tempers a peppery bite of fresh ginger, the vanilla serving as a vague, and I mean vague, analogue for rum. It’s a refreshing soda that is perfectly acceptable on its own but which won’t fool anyone into thinking it’s a cocktail. B+

Devil’s Foot Non-Alcoholic Margarita – A collab with Edmund’s Oast, this mixes up limes, orange, salt, cand sugar, and regional honey to create a vibrant libation that is the most authentic cocktail-like experience on the menu. Ample lime and a vague bite give the experience a taqueria-adjacent quality, but it’s the pinch of salt that seals the deal, balancing the sweetness and begging for a side of chips and salsa. Honey and a touch of juicy orange take the finish out on a refreshing note. A-

each $47 per case of 24 12-oz. cans / devilsfootbrew.com

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