Review: GlenDronach Allardice 18 Years Old

We commonly crank through GlenDronach’s special editions, but one of its permanent lineup has eluded us: Allardice, its 18 year old expression. The famed Highlands distillery’s 18 year old is named in honor of James Allardice, who founded the distillery in 1826. The whisky is completely aged in oloroso sherry casks.

Densely sherried, the nose is rich and laced with oxidized aromas evoking nutty, winey Pedro Ximenez sherry over oloroso. That’s but an illusion, of course, as this is aged fully in oloroso casks. The impact is impressive all the same: Bold, brooding, and rich, the nose evokes oily leather and furniture polish alongside spicier, racier notes of cinnamon red hots and some cayenne — surprising given its generally tame 46% abv. A not-insignificant level of sea spray salinity is clearly detectable, the Highlands at work.

The palate quickly pours on sweeter elements: Molasses, brown butter, warm Coca-Cola, plenty of spice notes. Rich and enveloping on the tongue, the whisky evokes austerity and intrigue: Turkish rug shops, old London barrooms, Asian spice markets. Increasingly nutty as the palate moves toward the finish, the well-sherried experience approaches Madeira at times with its intensely wine-laden quality. Dark chocolate and caramel sweeten up the lengthy, enveloping finish, a healthy baking spice quality — more ginger-driven here — clinging to the back end alongside a sweetening raspberry element.

Outstanding stuff.

92 proof.

A / $231 / glendronachdistillery.com [BUY IT NOW FROM CASKERS] [BUY IT NOW FROM RESERVEBAR]

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