Review: Chateau de Lacquy Armagnac 21 Years Old

There are a couple of theories regarding how bourbon came to be aged in charred oak barrels. Perhaps the most plausible theory lies in the fact that the French mature brandy in toasted wood barrels. In the era of bourbon infancy, Cognac was a known luxury French spirit. Did Americans begin using charred or toasted barrels to age whiskey as a means to emulate French luxury? We’ll never know, but it’s a theory that holds more water than the tale of a barn fire that randomly burned the insides of a few barrels that still got used. France produces a few notable styles of brandy, but Cognac is the most notable due to its preference by the British. However, Armagnac is arguably the French brandy with the most potential to appeal to bourbon drinkers. Cognac is produced on pot stills and typically comes off the still around 140 proof. Armagnac is typically produced on smaller continuous stills, often coming off the still around 104 to 120 proof. The more rustic Armagnac can easily be enticing to bourbon enthusiasts.

Dating back to 1711, Chateau de Lacquy is the oldest family estate producer of Armagnac operating today. The family produces a variety of vintages and blends. Chateau de Lacquy Bas-Armagnac 21 Years Old is a blend of five different vintages and three grape varietals. The blend incorporates Baco, Colombard, and Ugni blanc grapes. The youngest distillate in the blend matured for 19 years before being blended and further matured for an additional two years in 420 liter French oak barrels. The final length of maturation is at least 21 years, but some components in the blend have spent more time in barrels.

Now that we know what’s in the bottle, let’s dive in!

The nose immediately brings out a lovely caramel and sultana note. The sweetness of the caramel is immediately counter-balanced by 21 years of maturation as a mild tobacco note arrives. The dryness of the nose continues to evolve into a thick buttercream frosting and nutmeg aroma. The nutmeg and mild tobacco play well together. Bringing the nose together, a not-too-sweet note of orange marmalade develops, with a nice zesty character to it.

For the sake of continuity, the sultana note is also the first to speak on the palate as well. While the nose presents a bright and zesty orange marmalade aroma, the orange zest on the palate is far less bright. Rather than than a fresh orange peel still full of oil, the orange zest comes across more like an orange peel left on the counter overnight after seeking out a bedtime snack. The years in oak add a tannic backbone to the spirit by way of toasted pecan and vanilla, while the midpalate tapers off with a twinge of unsweetened cocoa powder. The mouthfeel is somewhat thin and very dry. I was hoping for a bit more on the mouthfeel. Was this it?

Wait a second. Hold up. What’s going on? While the palate’s initial mouthfeel falls a bit flat, the finish suddenly comes alive with a big, bold burst of rounded flavor. A huge finish comes out of nowhere and lasts for days, as cinnamon and black pepper notes make themselves known. The grand finale is a dry surge of oak and black tea, altogether something you don’t quickly forget.

Chateau de Lacquy put together a fascinating blend here. It’s a complex spirit that is constantly evolving in every aspect. This is a bottle I will savor and share with friends.

87 proof.

A- / $150 (700 ml) / chateaudelacquy.com

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