Review: Wines of Oberon, 2024 Releases
Recently celebrating the 50th harvest of its winemaker Tony Coltrin, the Oberon winery is a longtime Napa operator that has flown under the radar for most of its lifetime. To mark the milestone, Oberon is stretching its arms from Napa into new territory, launching its first wine from the more southernly Paso Robles region, a cabernet sauvignon.
“I’ve been fortunate to be mentored by, and to make and share wine with the Mondavi family over the course of my 50 harvests. It was working with them that I had an opportunity in the late 1990’s to taste the grapes and wines from a new vineyard project planted in Santa Margarita on one of their ranches. I was very impressed with the soils and climate of the region, the pioneering spirit of the local vintners, and the incredible quality of the grapes and wines,” remarked Tony Coltrin, Oberon Wines winemaker. “When given the opportunity to craft a new wine from this appellation, I took great care to honor and reflect Paso Robles’ unique character and soul. This wine is a thoughtful expression of an area I’ve always admired.”
Three current releases from the Oberon lineup follow, including a look at the new cab.
2022 Oberon Sauvignon Blanc Napa Valley – Boldly tropical notes up top fade slowly to reveal a grassy, floral underbelly, though the big pineapple punch — rather sweet at times — manages to maintain its grip on the wine for the long haul. A moderate salinity builds as the finish develops, helping to tamp down some of the sugar cookie dough sweetness that clings to the tip of the tongue, but any further complexity is fleeting. B / $20
2021 Oberon Merlot Napa Valley – Proof that plenty of solid merlot can be had for a modest outlay: Here, intense, semi-sweet plum and chocolate elements set up a juicy wine that’s laced with citrus and spice notes, mixing in touches of vanilla and cinnamon as the finish emerges. More effusive notes of strawberries temper the mild tannins that slowly build in the glass. No florals here to speak of, which is a bit of a surprise in a California merlot, but it’s a lively and enjoyable experience all the same. A- / $28
2021 Oberon Cabernet Sauvignon Paso Robles – An unfortunate misfire. Overblown currant and overripe raspberry notes are extracted to their untenable conclusion, coming across like pie filling. A smattering of baking spice notes don’t help to add nuance but rather push an overly sweet holiday agenda to its breaking point. Cloying and gooey, with a finish that evokes melted Haribo gummies dipped in chocolate. D / $25
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