Review: Lyre’s Non-Alcoholic Italian Spritz and Amalfi Spritz
With non-alcoholic spirits on the rise, the aperitif space has of late taken center stage as one of the most promising sectors for exploration. We’ve encountered NA amari that are nearly indistinguishable from the real thing, so we had high hopes going into this two-fer review of Lyre’s spin on the category. Reviewed herein: One in a full bottle and one in single-serve cans, courtesy of The Zero Proof.
Lyre’s Italian Spritz – This NA Campari substitute is, as the name suggests, designed to be used in a Spritz. Naturally it’s more versatile than that, and on its own, the cherry-forward product quickly segues into spice box notes — cinnamon and nutmeg are heavy and sustained throughout the drinking experience. It’s quite a bit sweeter than the typical red aperitif, though there’s ample bitterness to keep things in balance. Thank a sizeable rhubarb note and a light medicinal quality for that effort. While, like many NA spirits, the overall body is a little watery, it’s otherwise quite refreshing and palate-cleansing, performing the job of an aperitif well. It’s not really comparable to real Campari in flavor thanks to all that cinnamon in the mix, but as a spin on the classic sans alcohol, it does a better job than expected. B+ / $36 (700ml) [BUY IT NOW FROM AMAZON]
Lyre’s Amalfi Spritz – Spoiler alert: This is the best thing Lyre’s has done to date, by a huge margin. It’s a canned NA cocktail that approaches an Aperol Spritz in flavor and color. It’s made from a mix of Lyre’s Classico (its NA sparkling wine) and the above Italian Spritz, plus monk fruit juice and other flavorings. While slightly more bitter than an Aperol Spritz, this flavor shift is surprisingly welcome. A perfect level of fizz paves the way to immediate notes of bitter orange and gentian, giving the attack a quick, biting bunch. This fades as sweetness comes into focus, offering a clear character of white grape juice which, again, doesn’t seem unwelcome at all but is rather refreshing as it washes away the bitter beginnings. Some mandarin orange notes and a hint of blossom are evident. The sweet respite is temporary though, as the finish retreats back to a palate-cleansing conclusion that is immediately reminiscent of rhubarb. Expressive and fun, it’s easy to polish off a full 250ml can before you know what you’ve done… and you’ve consumed all of 70 calories along the way. A- / $15 per four-pack of 250 ml cans [BUY IT NOW FROM AMAZON]
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