Review: Thrasher’s Rums – Green Spiced, Relaxed, Coconut, and Spiced (2024)
Todd Thrasher got his start behind bars in Northern Virginia and Washington, D.C. before turning to distilling in 2018 and opening the Potomac Distilling Company in DC’s riverside District Wharf neighborhood. He produces a Guyanese-style rum in a variety of expressions, all of which form the bulk of the backbar at his distillery’s in-house tiki lounge, Tiki TNT. As Chris noted in his review of Thrasher’s Coconut Rum back in 2019, all rums are made from an equal blend of blackstrap molasses and raw turbinado sugar distilled on a pot still. Read on for our thoughts on several of Todd’s eponymous rums, including the Coconut expression, which we’re revisiting.
Thrasher’s Green Spiced Rum – This is an unusual rum infused with botanicals intended to make it reminiscent of English gin, per the company. That “gin” bill includes lemon verbena, lemongrass, lemon balm, mint, and green cardamom, at least some of which are grown in a large rooftop garden at the distillery. The nose is indeed reminiscent of a gin, but a very herbal and grassy one. Top notes of lime peel and molasses give way to fresh dill and cardamom, all of it underpinned with dried lemon wheels and sweet cut grass. The palate is piquant with dry spice and lemon oil. A subtle cotton candy sweetness arrives midpalate but fades into an herbaceous finish accented with more citrus and dried coconut. A somewhat confusing sipper but tailor made for a unique riff on a classic rum cocktail. 80 proof. B+ / $25
Thrasher’s Relaxed Rum – Instead of aging, Thrasher’s relaxes this rum in new American white oak for two years. The aging doesn’t even seem quite that long as plenty of that fresh, gritty molasses character shoots through the aroma with subtle undertones of dry oak and vanilla taffy. It’s clean with a restrained sweetness but somewhat monotone. On the palate, there’s clearly a want for more time in the barrel with muted notes of dark caramel and barrel char that never find solid footing amid sharper notes of torched sugar and burnt cinnamon toast. With water, things find a better balance of brown sugar and spice. Not a neat sipper, but fine enough over ice or in a cocktail. 100 proof. B / $49
Thrasher’s Coconut Rum (2024) – Made without added sugar or artificial flavor, this rum has been infused with actual coconut. As advertised, this is not your Malibu foil, which, as Chris already noted, may be a surprise to some rum fans. It’s nicely balanced and silky on the nose with warm, gently sweet notes of toasted coconut and coconut cream. As it opens, it gets a bit nuttier and well-baked, almost like a coconut pie. The palate is equally impressive, presenting even more fresh, natural flavors from its namesake ingredient. Thick notes of grated coconut and coconut milk give way to a bright finish of warm macaroon and lime zest. Despite still being a little green on the finish, it’s an impressive and engaging rum. 80 proof. A- / $25
Thrasher’s Spiced Rum – A mix of star anise, clove, allspice, cinnamon, vanilla, and orange peel steeped for four days in Thrasher’s White Rum. The aroma is warm and expressive, not nearly the cacophony of sugar and spice you find in lots of other spiced rums. A bit of caramelized brown sugar adds just enough buttery sweetness to the foundation but doesn’t overpower an elegant mix of baking spice and dried orange peel. The palate is a bit too dry, however. At least for neat sipping. Whole cloves and cinnamon sticks create a zesty, peppery entry that gives way to vanilla extract, allspice, and tangy citrus. It all seems to evaporate on the finish, leaving behind traces of ginger root and black licorice. Lip-puckering stuff to be sure. But, once again, it fares well enough in a creative cocktail. 80 proof. B / $25
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