Review: Milam & Greene Unabridged Volume 1

Blanco, Texas-based Milam & Greene Whiskey has launched a whole new series of whiskeys called Unabridged, another blended bourbon that has been designed not just by CEO Heather Greene but also by Noah Rothbaum and David Wondrich, well-known whiskey nerds and writers.

Per the company, “The three tasted numerous whiskey samples and ultimately created a blend of straight bourbons, which were made in three different states and are of different ages.”

“Unabridged celebrates friendships unfolding throughout the unedited and messy chapters of our biographies,” says Milam & Greene Whiskey CEO and blender Heather Greene. “As friends and fellow whiskey-writers, the three of us had an implicit pact to support each other’s dreams. After publishing many books and hundreds of articles, garnering awards, and thousands of tastings, Unabridged makes good on that promise. Milam & Greene Unabridged showcases the flavors a barrel can impart into bourbon over time and place.”

Milam & Greene Unabridged draws upon the distillery’s rich library of casks aging in its rickhouse in Blanco, Texas. It is created with a backbone of straight bourbon whiskies distilled by master distiller Marlene Holmes onsite in Texas and at Bardstown Bourbon Co. both using the same mashbill. Bourbon distilled in Tennessee and aged 4, 6, and 14 years, along with 4-year-old Kentucky bourbon round out the chapters.

The total breakdown of the 28 barrels includes 6 casks at 14 years old, 8 casks at 6 years old, 9 casks at 4 years old, 2 casks at 3.5 years old, and 13 casks under 3 years old — the latter two surely representing M&G’s own home-distilled stock and the rest sourced. (Even more detail is available on the bottle’s back label.)

We tried the bourbon on a lively Zoom with the blending trio. Here’s what I thought about it.

It’s definitely an aggressive whiskey compared to M&G’s prior output, which tends to be a little more delicate and nuanced. Immediately peppery and char-forward on the nose, it’s heavy with notes of dark chocolate, rye spice, and mint. High-proof, for sure, the palate is hot but not scorching, showing some peanut, citrus peel, and plenty of mint. Brown sugar dominates, with a nuttiness building on the finish, then more baking spice, especially ginger. There’s a hint of smoldering, toasted marshmallow on the back end.

All told, this is a real departure for Milam & Greene, but not an unwelcome one, showcasing a very high-proof experience with more punch than the brand is typically known for. Greene notes that that was somewhat intentional but that the finished product should still contain some semblance of the M&G house style. I think this release may wander a bit farther than she’d prefer from that house style, though it has a delightful, richer charm of its own to explore. Grab it, for sure, and decide for yourself.

118 proof. 6000 bottles produced.

A- / $90 / milamandgreene.com

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