Review: Savage & Cooke Bloody Butcher and Howling Mob Bonded Bourbons
The recently rebranded and relaunched Savage & Cooke whiskey brand just got its first line extensions with the arrival of a new Bottled in Bond Series. These two whiskeys are both built around heirloom corn varietals designed to showcase the grain above all else.
We got a very early look at these whiskeys, so let’s dive in to see how they fare.
Savage & Cooke Bloody Butcher Bourbon Bottled in Bond – Made from 70% Bloody Butcher heirloom corn, 16% red winter wheat, and 14% malted barley, 4 years old, aged in #3 char barrels. The nose is complex and expressive but refined, the notes of toasted corn quite mild for a 4 year old whiskey, allowing more exotic notes of toasted coconut, cinnamon, and sandalwood to dominate. Time in glass allows a summery floral aroma to infiltrate, heavy on jasmine, with a touch of spearmint. The palate is initially a touch quiet, which is a surprise given the bold buildup from the aromatics, but it isn’t long before it takes hold, pouring on moderately sweet notes of sugar cookie dough, mint syrup (try this in a julep!), and sesame oil. The finish layers in ginger and more fresh mint, with just a spritz of oily oak to finish things off. A huge winner, and one I returned to more than once to explore in greater depth. 100 proof. A / $99
Savage & Cooke Bloody Howling Mob Bourbon Bottled in Bond – Made from a unique and bold mash of 86% Howling Mob heirloom corn and 14% malted barley. No rye or wheat. 4 years old, no barrel info offered. A vastly different experience than Bloody Butcher, with a wood-forward nose that evokes the slight smokiness of barrel char, wet asphalt, cloves, and fresh pepper. Boldly savory on the palate, the whiskey takes various meandering turns toward roasted corn, beef barbecue, and wild game — with pepper dominant throughout it all. The whiskey never lets up, and eventually the lack of a flavoring grain becomes apparent in the form of an erratic sense of balance. I did enjoy the comparably refreshing sense of sesame-driven sweetness on the finish, which helps to lighten the mood considerably. As an investigation into the power of Howling Mob corn, the whiskey is an instructive experience — but things here feel more intellectual and academic than exuberantly enjoyable. 100 proof. B+ / $99
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