Review: 2021 Sandro de Bruno Lessini Durello 36 Mesi Dosaggio Zero

This Italian sparkling wine made with 100% durrella grapes is crafted in the “metodo classico,” which is the Italian term for Méthode Champenoise, in which secondary fermentation takes place in the bottle. It spent 36 months on the lees and has zero dosage, which means it has no residual sugar. Quite distinctive, let’s pour a glass.

Pale gold in color, this sparkler shows bold notes of pineapple and lemon on both the nose and palate. Some additional complexity arrives midpalate, when some flinty minerality appears along with bracing acidity. The wine shows ample effervescence, but I would have liked smaller bubbles for a silkier mouthfeel, and the finish is fairly short. On the other hand, though the wine is quite dry since it features zero dosage, the fruity character does a great job of keeping it from seeming overly dry. Altogether, this is an uncommon Italian sparkling wine for both its grapes and its zero dosage, and it deserves a try.

B / $35 / verovinogusto.com

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