Growing Up Islay: Meet Ardbeg’s New Distillery Manager Bryony McNiven

You may have missed the news that Colin Gordon left Ardbeg Distillery last year to return to his roots in malting on the mainland. Succeeding him in his role as Distillery Manager is Bryony McNiven, a daughter of the island with a very Ardbeg-heavy resume. Her father was a longtime stillman, and she has spent her entire career with the distillery in a variety of roles. Last fall, she became the first woman to helm the iconic Islay outpost since Flora and Margaret MacDougall, sisters of Ardbeg’s founder who managed the distillery in the 1850s. Now that she’s settled into the front office and promoting her latest big release, Ardbeg 10 Years Old Cask Strength, we thought we’d check in with her about her deep ties to the distillery, what she thinks makes it so special, and how she found herself running the place.

Drinkhacker: What was it like growing up on Islay with family ties to one of its most famous distilleries?

Bryony: Islay is a special place to many, and I had a great childhood growing up here. Ardbeg is more than just a whisky to me – it’s a place and distillery that’s always been a part of my life; my dad worked here as a stillman for many years and only recently retired.

Drinkhacker: From a native Ileach, what has Ardbeg meant to the island over the years?

Bryony: Ardbeg has always been a big part of the community on Islay since it was founded in 1815. Over the decades it’s been a vital source of employment and attracts thousands of visitors to Islay each year for whisky tourism. Ardbeg has also been a great support to local organizations and charities; the Ardbeg All Islay Fund has given £1 million to the community on Islay over the last five years.

Drinkhacker: When did you know that you wanted to work in the industry? Did you think you would come back to the island or work for Ardbeg?

Bryony: Whilst studying my degree in Chemistry at Glasgow University, I wrote my dissertation on whisky. I love the science of the whisky-making process and that’s what made me want to have a career in the industry. It wasn’t always in the plan to move home to Islay, but once we started a family, my husband and I were drawn back home and I was fortunate enough to transfer to a role at the Ardbeg Visitor Centre after spending some time in the Whisky Creation Team and also as a Brand Ambassador in Sweden. I worked as Visitor Centre Planner for several years, before moving into my new role this year as Distillery Manager.

Drinkhacker: What was it like being an ambassador for Ardbeg overseas? What has surprised you most about Ardbeg fans?

Bryony: I loved it. It’s a great experience to get out to markets and meet fans who have maybe never managed to make the trip to Islay. Everyone was extremely welcoming in Sweden and some of the most committed die-hard fans. I couldn’t believe how many Ardbeg tattoos I came across while I was there!

Drinkhacker: What is unique about the process of whisky creation at Ardbeg? How does it stand out from other Islay single malts in your opinion?

Bryony: At Ardbeg we use the most heavily peated malt of all the Islay distilleries at 55ppm, but the smoky flavour in our whisky is balanced with a beautiful fruity, zesty note as a result of the unique size and shape of our stills, the cut points of our distillation, and the reflux created by having a purifier on our spirit stills. We always want that big, bold smoky flavour to be in perfect balance with the sweeter, more delicate side of Ardbeg. Ardbeg has a reputation for whisky innovation and pushing the boundaries of what’s possible when it comes to smoky flavour – there’s always a new crazy idea in the pipeline!

Drinkhacker: Before becoming distillery manager, you focused on the visitor experience. What is unique about that aspect of Ardbeg? How has the new Ardbeg House hotel added to the visitor experience?

Bryony: Islay is such a welcoming place. People may come here for the whisky but they fall in love with the island – from the people to the landscape and everything in between. At Ardbeg we focus on engaging with customers and leaving them with that lasting memory of their time with us. Ardbeg House provides visitors with an opportunity to fully immerse themselves in the world of Ardbeg even after they have left us at the Distillery – whether they are staying, eating or drinking. It really is a hospitality experience like no other! The hotel reopened last year and has been designed in collaboration with interior story makers, Russell Sage Studios, who have brought the stories of Islay and Ardbeg to life across all aspects of the hotel, restaurant and bar – from the art, to the furnishings and the menus.

Drinkhacker: You are the first woman to manage the distillery since the MacDougall sisters over 150 years ago. What does that legacy mean to you?

Bryony: I’m incredibly proud to be the first woman in modern history to be Ardbeg’s Distillery Manager. Early in my career it was a role I admired and hoped to be able to do one day so it’s very special that dream has become a reality.

Drinkhacker: When did you taste your first Ardbeg single malt? Which expression?

Bryony: My first proper taste was when I became a tour guide and was learning the ropes of the products and the process. It was a dram of Ardbeg Ten Years Old and I’ve been hooked ever since.

Drinkhacker: Do you have a favorite core expression? Favorite Committee Release?

Bryony: Depending on the occasion, it’s Ardbeg An Oa or Ardbeg Uigeadail for me. Picking a favourite Committee release isn’t easy, but it has to be Ardbeg Alligator (gone but not forgotten!).

Drinkhacker: The new Cask Strength Ten Year Old was just released. What can you tell us about that one? Any teasers for other new Ardbeg expressions on the horizon?

Bryony: I’m so excited about the release of Ardbeg Ten Cask Strength. Whilst similar to the classic Ten Year Old, its smoky intensity is even more accentuated at a whopping cask strength of 61.7% abv. We laid down some casks of new make spirit at a higher strength than our regular filling strength to make this whisky, and the result is phenomenal. Like the classic Ten, we’ve used bourbon casks, but the higher strength has really concentrated the smoky, briny and sweet citrus notes. There are a couple of new releases on the horizon this year which I think will definitely delight Ardbeg fans – all I can say for now is watch this space!

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