Review: Ampersand Spirits Opimus, Malus, and Vinea

Chip Tate entered the American whiskey conversation in 2008 with the founding of Balcones Distilling in Waco, Texas. Operating from a repurposed welding shop, Tate engineered and assembled his own copper stills, setting the stage for a hands on approach that quickly separated his work from established producers. At a moment when small scale distilling in the United States was still gaining traction, his rye, bourbon, and single malt whiskey attracted serious attention for their originality, technical ambition, and refusal to mirror legacy profiles.

Industry recognition followed. Whisky Magazine named Tate a Whisky Icon and Craft Whiskey Distiller of the Year in both 2012 and 2014, acknowledgments that reflected his influence on the direction of modern American spirits rather than simple commercial success. By December 2014, Tate departed Balcones to pursue new creative paths, carrying forward a consistent focus on experimentation and the unconventional.

That mindset resurfaced in January 2024 when Tate joined Foley Family Wine and Spirits as Master Distiller for Innovation, working primarily from Minden Mill Distillery in Nevada. The role provided a platform for research driven distillation and maturation concepts, while allowing Tate to continue pushing against stylistic boundaries.

The fall of 2025 marked the debut of his most ambitious undertaking to date, Ampersand Spirits. The project centers on pairing spirits from different categories and less common secondary maturation strategies that resist easy classification. Through Ampersand, Tate explores how contrast, structure, and time can interact when traditional rules are set aside. The inaugural lineup includes Optimus, Malus, and Vinea, all of which were provided to Drinkhacker for review.

Efforts to merge disparate spirit categories have surfaced before, often accompanied by heavy anticipation and uneven results. Examples such Hogsworth, blending bourbon and Armagnac, have demonstrated how difficult true cohesion can be when expectations outpace execution. Tate’s track record, however, lends credibility to the idea that these combinations may deliver more than novelty.

Ampersand Spirits arrives with beautiful presentation and concept, but visual appeal alone does not determine lasting relevance. The central question remains whether the liquid itself rises to the promise suggested by its ambition and presentation, and whether these category defying compositions can establish a meaningful place within the broader spirits landscape. Let’s dive in!

Ampersand Opimus Kentucky Straight Bourbon 15 Years Old Finished in Tokaji Wine Casks Review

Opimus derives from Latin, meaning rich or abundant. With abundance as the guiding idea, Tate finished Kentucky straight bourbon aged 15 and 16 years in 225 liter Tokaji wine casks. The finishing casks previously held Tokaji, a historic Hungarian dessert wine made primarily from Furmint grapes. This wine is known for its high natural acidity and sweetness, qualities shaped by the presence of botrytized fruit. Botrytized grapes are influenced by noble rot, a naturally occurring fungus that partially dries the grapes on the vine, concentrating sugars, acids, and aromatic compounds. Tokaji earned the title “Wine of Kings, King of Wines” after gaining favor among European royalty in the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries, including Louis XIV of France.

The bourbon is built on a mashbill of 75% corn, 13% rye, and 12% malted barley. Most of the primary maturation occurred in Lawrenceburg, Kentucky. Initial maturation took place barrels sourced from multiple cooperages, including Independent Stave Company, featuring a #4 char and a barrel entry proof of 125. The barrels were filled between August and March, allowing for seasonal variation during early aging.

While the distillery of origin is not disclosed, available details strongly suggest the whiskey was distilled under contract by Buffalo Trace for Wild Turkey, a pairing often referred to within the industry as “Buff Turkey.” After extended aging, the bourbon was transferred into Tokaji casks in the fall at 122.6 proof. The finishing period took place at Mindell Mill, where the barrels rested in climate controlled rickhouses designed to replicate the cooler, steadier conditions commonly associated with Scotland.

The aroma begins with the nougat center of a Three Musketeers bar, followed closely by milk chocolate that completes the candy bar composite. As those confectionary notes ease back, beeswax candle and lavender laundry sheets come into view. Later, the Tokaji wine barrel influence shows itself with a push of Fig Newton character. Taken as a whole, the nosing profile is multifaceted and sets ambitious expectations for what follows.

The first sip introduces elderflower cordial paired with raspberry vinaigrette. Moving through the middle, flavors associated with German hefeweizen surface before shifting toward prunes. The overall texture reads dry rather than plush. I evaluated Opimus across two sessions. During the first, the opening experience carried a pronounced heightened heat that felt well above its stated 116.6 proof strength, enough to pull focus away from the flavors and suggest a higher proof level. On the second day, that heat aligned more closely with expectations for its stated alcohol content.

Throughout the early and middle portions, the Tokaji barrel contribution remains a dominant presence. The closing stretch delivers Special K cereal with dehydrated strawberries and a light amount of allspice, followed by tannic espresso grounds and dried apple chips. This final phase amplifies the drying sensation compared to the initial palate.

There is a clear divide between aroma and taste: the former suggests a creamier experience, while the latter skews dry with a bit of jammy fruit. This contrast appears rooted in the combination of extended wood aging after fifteen years and a rich wine-barrel finish. Drinkers who favor heartier wood influence are likely to find more appeal here. For my own preferences, the wood presence pushes beyond my comfort zone.

While a 15 to 16-year-old bourbon released undiluted and finished in an uncommon wine barrel fits comfortably within a $150 asking price on paper, the enjoyment it delivers does not fully justify that cost for me, given how heavily the wood character shapes the experience. 116.6 proof. B / $150

Ampersand Malus Blend of Straight Rye Whiskey and Calvados Review

Malus takes its name from the Latin word for the genus of apple trees, a fitting reference to a spirit that connects early American preferences. Before bourbon rose to dominance in the United States, rye whiskey and apple brandy were the most popular spirits in America. Malus revives that heritage through a blend of straight rye whiskey and French Calvados.

Malus is composed of 51% straight rye whiskey and 49% Calvados brandy from Normandy, France. The rye whiskey features a mashbill of 95% rye and 5% malted barley and was distilled in Lawrenceburg, Indiana. The rye matured in Indiana and Kentucky over a period ranging from 8 years to 9 years and 5 months, with an average age of approximately 9 years.

The rye whiskey barrels were sourced from Independent Stave Company and constructed using staves that were open-air seasoned for 18 months, along with a #3 char.

The Calvados component was aged 8 to 9 years in French oak casks, filled between October and December 2014 at 140–144 proof. While it was not disclosed whether the casks were new French oak, Calvados producers traditionally favor previously used barrels. Notably, these casks had never held any spirit other than Calvados. With an age of 8–9 years, the Calvados qualifies for the Hors d’Age designation.

This brandy falls under the AOC Calvados classification, the broadest of the three Calvados appellations, covering most of Normandy and accounting for the majority of production. The Calvados is made from a blend of more than 40 varieties of cider apples and pears, with pears comprising an undisclosed smaller portion. Fermentation occurred without chaptalization.

While it is undisclosed whether the Calvados was column-distilled or pot-distilled, column distillation is far more common in Normandy. Regardless of the method, Calvados is legally distilled to a maximum of 144 proof.

For blending, the rye whiskey was incorporated at approximately 120 proof, while the Calvados was added at around 130 proof, resulting in a batch proof of roughly 125. The blend was allowed to marry for about one month before being slowly proofed down and bottled at 92 proof.

The olfactory opening is clear and precise: Cow Tales candy, rendered with uncanny accuracy. Dry caramel pairs with powdered vanilla cream so convincingly that, with eyes shut, there is no mental drift elsewhere for several seconds. As that imagery settles, bright apple juice presents itself, followed by honeysuckle and a sprinkle of nutmeg. The bouquet is well-defined, leaning decisively toward Calvados despite the near-even 51/49 composition of rye whiskey and Calvados. On the nose, the rye remains largely in the background, allowing orchard fruit to garner attention.

The palate shifts direction in a way that keeps the experience interesting. Where the aroma emphasizes apple-forward sweetness, the flavor profile pivots toward dryness. Brut cider leads, joined by dry ginger ale, creating a crisp entry. Mid-palate development finally signals the rye component, introducing clove and a black pepper note that gains traction toward the back. The closing stretch returns to brut cider, though with slightly less austerity than the initial sip. From there, lightly sweetened sultanas, dried orange peel, and a soft leather accent round things out.

Malus succeeds because of this contrast between aroma and flavor. The Calvados drives the identity of the blend, even with equal billing on paper, and that contrast works to its advantage. Apple brandy fans will find plenty to appreciate, while the rye provides accent without pulling focus. Pricing remains accessible, making this a practical choice rather than a speculative one. For experienced brandy enthusiasts, this is a well-done and favorably priced release. For American whiskey drinkers curious about apple brandy, it functions even better as a point of entry without feeling like a point of entry. 92 proof. A / $59

Ampersand Vinea Blend of Straight Rye and Grain Neutral Spirits Aged 8 Years in Cognac Casks Review

Vinea is Latin word for “vine,” a nod to the influence of grape-based Cognac cask aging on this unusual blend of spirits. Vinea is composed of 75% straight rye whiskey and 25% grain neutral spirit (GNS) that has been aged for more than nine years in XO Cognac casks, creating a profile unlike any traditional American whiskey.

The rye whiskey component was distilled in Lawrenceburg, Indiana, and matured in Indiana and Kentucky for a period ranging from 8 years to 9 years and 5 months. While the rye whiskey makes up the large majority of the blend, it is the Cognac cask-aged grain neutral spirit that defines Vinea.

Under United States regulations, grain neutral spirit is defined as a spirit “distilled from a mash of grain at not less than 190 proof, so distilled as to be without distinctive character, aroma, taste, or color.” In simple terms, vodka begins its life as a neutral spirit, regardless of whether it is fermented from grain, fruit, potatoes, or other sugar sources.

For Vinea, the grain neutral spirit was distilled from a 100% corn mashbill and brought to 190 proof, meeting the legal definition of neutrality. However, unlike typical neutral spirits, this GNS developed significant character through extended aging in 225-liter XO Cognac casks sourced from Vicard, with the barrels most likely originating from Rémy Martin.

The GNS was filled into the XO Cognac casks at 120 proof in the summer of 2015, where it matured for over nine years. This extended time in French oak XO cognac casks took a lifeless spirit and transformed it into an expressive blending component.

The bouquet starts with aged balsamic glaze alongside fresh radish sprouts. As the glass sits, a just-opened bag of marshmallows becomes the primary aroma, followed by freeze-dried strawberries and yellow plum. The profile suggests a spirit that will drink dense and sweet.

On the sip, nectarine flesh leads, joined by freshly ground ginger. The middle registers Butter Rum Lifesavers and white grape juice. Despite the expectations set by the aroma, the body lands slightly below a true medium weight. The closing moments introduce rye bread crust and birch bark, finishing with a return of white grape juice and a lightly set pecan pie filling. While the texture initially reads a bit thin, it gains some momentum with repeated sips, particularly as it moves toward the end of the experience.

As an unconventional blended spirit, Vinea occupies an in-between space, never fully committing to a single stylistic lane. Those looking for the lively character often associated with 8 to 9-year-old rye whiskey may find it somewhat lacking The lighter body is understandable given that a quarter of the blend consists of grain neutral spirit, though the use of cognac casks keeps it from feeling insubstantial.

This is the sort of bottle I’d be glad to order at a bar out of curiosity and enjoy for what it is. At home, it’s unlikely to displace more familiar favorites in my rotation. That said, its pricing feels fair for something this uncommon, making it a relatively low-risk purchase. If it clicks for you, it’s a rewarding find; if not, the investment is modest. Those with an interest in cognac influences will likely find the concept especially appealing. 92 proof. B / $60

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