Review: 2023 Davis Bynum Chardonnay Dutton Origin and Pinot Noir Bacigalupi

Davis Bynum (part of the Rodney Strong empire) is a Sonoma County winery known for bottling the first ever vineyard-designated pinot noir in the region. Now it’s celebrating its 50th anniversary with a collection of wines, two of which we’re looking at today.

2023 Davis Bynum Chardonnay Dutton Origin Vineyard – Made from the original 1967 Wente clone planted at Dutton Home Ranch. A refreshing and balanced expression of chardonnay from the Russian River Valley, surprising at the start due to the region’s reputation for being blown out and over-oaked. Here we find a wine that is brightly tropical and fruit-forward, with layers of gentle baking spice adding a lively punch to the proceedings. The finish is clean and enduring, more tropical notes — heavy on pineapple — leading the way out. Excellent stuff. A / $70

2023 Davis Bynum Pinot Noir Bacigalupi Vineyard – This is from the vineyard that helped win the 1976 Judgment of Paris (albeit for chardonnay, not pinot noir). A lively and rather on-point example of Russian River pinot, this wine hits all the high points, starting with tart black cherry notes then moving into dusky chocolate and a spray of baking spices. Earthy, anise-laced notes give the finish a more brooding quality, hints of chocolate and a dark cherry reprise coming into focus. Biting cinchona and clove linger, tempering any risk of overt sweetness from developing. A- / $70

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