Review: Middle West Ported Pumpernickel Rye

For decades, American whiskey has been shaped by a relatively small circle of entrenched producers concentrated in Kentucky, Tennessee, and Indiana. While a few early independents matriculated in the mid-1990s and early 2000s, the period between 2010 and 2015 marked a dramatic increase in the number of small distilleries across the country. These newcomers entered a marketplace already dominated by deeply established operations with immense production capacity, extensive inventories, and generations of accumulated experience. The advantage was unmistakable. Large producers could make mature, high-quality whiskey at a cost point that young distilleries simply could not match.

It became obvious rather quickly that smaller operations were never going to out-Beam Jim Beam. Competing on price, volume, or tradition was a losing proposition. Instead, craft distillers began to look for ways to differentiate — approaches that departed from convention, even when those choices introduced inefficiency or higher costs. The goal was to create something different enough to grab attention on shelves shared with names like Maker’s Mark and Four Roses.

Middle West Spirits of Columbus, Ohio chose an unconventional path by centering its whiskey around an unusual form of rye: dark pumpernickel. While pumpernickel bread is familiar to most Americans, its use as a foundation for American whiskey was unheard of. The majority of rye whiskey production relies on uniform, bulk commodity rye grain selected for consistency and ease of processing. Pumpernickel, however, is not a rye variety but a method. It refers less to genetics and more to treatment.

Traditional pumpernickel begins with whole rye berries rather than refined flour. The grain is cracked or coarsely milled, leaving the bran, germ, and endosperm intact. It is then subjected to prolonged, low-temperature cooking — often lasting 16 to 24 hours. Where conventional rye whiskey production prioritizes rapid starch conversion, short fermentations, and a clean, predictable spice profile, pumpernickel favors complexity over speed. The process preserves compounds that are typically stripped away, with its hallmark character emerging from slow Maillard reactions rather than caramelization.

Middle West’s dark pumpernickel rye has demonstrated that this approach is not merely novel, but genuinely excellent in the glass. The Double Cask Collection’s Ported Pumpernickel Rye expands on that foundation. The mashbill consists of 80% dark pumpernickel rye, supported by 5% Ohio-grown soft red winter wheat, 5% non-GMO open-pollinated yellow corn, and 5% two-row malted barley. Fermentation takes place over 72 hours in closed-top vessels. The resulting distiller’s beer is distilled through a Vendome-built column still and doubler, producing new make at 135.5 proof.

The spirit enters the barrel at 120 proof, barrels raised by Speyside Cooperage in Jackson, Ohio, featuring a medium toast and a #4 char. For this release, the base rye matured between four and a half and six years, averaging just over five years. Approximately 35 barrels were selected and blended before being transferred into 20 Tawny Port casks at an average entry proof of 123 to 126. These casks, holding between 60 and 66 gallons, previously contained Tawny Port for a minimum of seven years.

The whiskey then spent an additional 12 to 24 months resting in those Port casks, adding further development onto an already unique spirit. What happens when a dark pumpernickel rye with such a pronounced identity encounters such an expressive finishing cask? Do the port casks dominate the profile, or do they amplify what was already there? Or does the combination yield something entirely its own, leaving a lasting impression that defies easy categorization? Let’s find out!

Middlewest Double Cask Collection Ported Pumpernickel Rye Review

This rye presents itself with a nose that opens on rose petals and dark, almost dank molasses. With air, the profile broadens to red licorice and prunes, then settles into the scent of day-old coffee grounds. The Tawny Port cask contribution is noticeable at this stage and sets a clear direction before the first sip.

On the palate, vanilla pudding skin and overripe plums arrive first. The midpalate brings toasted cinnamon-raisin bread and ginger chew candies, carried by a notably dense mouthfeel. While the pumpernickel rye character stays somewhat muted aromatically, it shows itself early on the palate. The closing sequence offers butter pecan ice cream and a port-style demi-glace, tapering into granola crumble.

As a rye with secondary maturation, this is an enjoyable and well-done release. That said, my preference still leans toward Middle West’s standard straight rye at 96 proof and the cask strength version — both unadorned by Tawny Port casks and both available at a lower cost. The added finishing here is interesting but does not quite justify the premium relative to the pleasure it delivers.

For those already familiar with Middle West and curious about a finished expression, the Ported Cask Pumpernickel Rye is a worthwhile bottle. For newcomers to the distillery’s rye portfolio, the straight ryes offer a clearer and more rewarding introduction. Fans of Port-finished whiskey, however, will find plenty to appreciate in this release.

99.5 proof.

B+ / $100

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