Review: Hatozaki Omakase Small Batch 15 Years Old

Hatozaki‘s periodic “Omakase” releases continue with this fourth offering, the oldest age-stated release in the series to date. It’s a 15 year old single malt made at Kaikyo Distillery on the shore of the Seto Inland Sea, aged for 12 years in bourbon barrels and, like much of its lineup, finished in mizunara oak, this time for 3 years. Exclusive to the U.S., fewer than 3000 bottles have been produced.

We received a healthy sample from Hatozaki to review, so let’s dive in.

Hatozaki Omakase Small Batch 15 Years Old Review

Those familiar with Japanese malt will find this a fun and unique experience, hitting many of Japan’s highlights while striking some new ground as well. Malty and quite nutty on the nose, it’s heavy on almonds as it moves gently into toasty sandalwood as it develops in the glass. There’s fruit here, but it’s restrained, showcasing caramel-laced spiced apples, later some vanilla-scented pear notes, rich with aromatic florals.

The palate surprisingly feels a bit more straightforward — and fruitier, with a more forceful apple note layered with vanilla and marzipan. Quite fresh and lively, it has none of the dense austerity that older Japanese single malt — particularly mizunara-touched expressions — often exhibits, remaining vibrant and sunny, really at the top of its game. Its so effusive that things can come across as perhaps too fruit-forward at times, maybe a touch one-note en route to its silky, chocolate-laced finish.

But hey, what a note it is! Fresh and inviting, it ultimately reveals itself as a whisky that’s hard to put down, and if you hang in there long enough, you might just find some late-game hints of lemon and coconut creeping into the mix. It’s my favorite Hatozaki release to date; I don’t see how anyone couldn’t enjoy it.

92 proof.

A- / $150

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