Review: 15 Stars Bourbon Artisan Collection 12 Years Old

Check the fine print and you’ll see that this new release from the Bardstown-based non-distilling producers at 15 Stars have bottled a whiskey that is a blend of 12 year old and 15 year old straight bourbon stock. Naturally, only the youngest can appear as the formal age statement, but a little digging reveals more data. The whiskeys are sourced from both Kentucky and Indiana, though there’s no information on which age corresponds to which state — or whether there are three or even four combinations of the two variables.

Bottles are individually labeled with batch and bottle numbers. Thoughts on this latest 15 Stars release follow.

15 Stars Bourbon Artisan Collection 12 Years Old Review

This isn’t a shy bourbon, racy on the nose with a thick smear of oily wood, cherries in syrup, and a maple character that amps up the sweetness. It’s rich and well-developed, displaying aromas of tobacco, both dried and lightly smoked, with some black pepper cracked over the top. While never over the top, it’s definitely a powerhouse that is short on subtlety.

The whiskey’s palate is rich and undulating, initially so fruity at times that it can evoke thoughts that sherry was involved in its production. But those raisin and prune notes slide quickly into a more austere, wood-driven quality, coming off as a little one-note until loads of spices emerge with a crash, providing a wintry lifting quality. Leathery and dense, the experience can be alternately scattered and a bit closed off and inaccessible, with the heavy flavors of clove and allspice adding a sharper, almost pungent feel to the midpalate. I wonder if perhaps it’s simply over-oaked and the wood is having its way with the experience.

Tannic oak continues to dominate a finish that feels like it would prefer to see a more soothing chocolate-caramel quality come into focus (or at least which I would prefer), though hints of plum and gingerbread that peek through the screen of wood prove there may be some life left in the thing. Come armed with a glass of water to temper it appropriately.

109 proof. Reviewed: Batch #001.

B / $179

The post Review: 15 Stars Bourbon Artisan Collection 12 Years Old appeared first on Drinkhacker: The Insider’s Guide to Good Drinking.