Review: Knob Creek Bourbon 21 Years Old

As a brand, Knob Creek is now 32 years old. In that context, its release of a 21 year old expression —  by far its oldest to date — makes perfect sense. Given how impressive Knob Creek 15 Years Old and Knob Creek 18 Years Old are, it also stands to reason that this 21 year old offering would raise the stakes even further.

There’s no big mystery as to what’s in the bottle; this is the same juice that makes up all of Jim Beam’s Knob Creek bourbon expressions, only aged 21 years before bottling. For what it’s worth, this expression comes in an interesting wooden case to help you show off your prize.

Ready to give it a whirl? Let’s dig in.

Knob Creek Bourbon 21 Years Old Review

Do you like wood? I certainly hope so, because that’s what you’re about to dive into head first here. Massive aromas of charred staves dominate the nose, followed by complementary elements of anise, blackened barbecue burnt ends, and gunpowder. There’s a layer of raisin and some prune that finally, and mercifully, follows, hinting at fruit that is otherwise completely buried underneath all those heavy barrel notes. Black pepper, cloves, and smudged sage provide what passes for a spice element.

The palate kicks off with unusual notes of oxidized sweet vermouth, followed by heftier fare: charred beef and braised cabbage. Tarry and gravelly, it’s one of the most savory whiskeys I’ve ever encountered, with a powerful herbaceousness that feels at first overblown and rather smoky, smoldering.

On my first night with Knob Creek 21, I called it quits at this point. Take a break, come back to it later. Reset the palate.

I’m glad I did because I was pleasantly surprised to see that a day later and with a fresh glass, things had developed in a very positive way. Brown sugar sweetness finally revealed itself, alongside some clear, darker fruit, evoking blackberries steeped in syrup. Lots of black tea, gently sweetened, give the midpalate a drying and earthy quality, with some citrus peel peeking in for the finish.

While my initial experience with this whiskey saw a finish that was very much drying and peppery, clearly feeling like it had spent far too long in the barrel, my second, reset round showed this whiskey in its best light. Rather than cringing from all the tannic overload, I found myself engaged with a whiskey that was pleasantly sweet and still very lively. That said, I’m not sure that a Knob Creek 24 Years Old in 2028 — the perhaps inevitable next step in the progression — would be the best of ideas. Not that I’m going to say no to at least giving it a whirl.

100 proof.

A- / $250 [BUY IT NOW FROM FROOTBAT]

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