Review: Copper & Kings VSOP Brandy, Apple Brandy, and Bourbon (2025)
Bourbon is often hailed as America’s native spirit. That title gained official weight in 1964, when Congress declared bourbon a “distinctive product of the United States,” placing it on the same footing as Scotch whisky and granting it formal protection in international trade. Only whiskey crafted on American soil could bear the name. Yet for all of bourbon’s present-day prestige, it was neither the nation’s first infatuation nor its second when it came to strong drink.
In the colonial period, rum — both imported and locally made — dominated American tables and taverns. New England’s economy thrived on its rum trade, with distilleries tied deeply into the movement of goods and people across the Atlantic. Alongside this industrial rum machine, another spirit held a quieter but more personal place in daily life: domestic brandy. Records from early taverns consistently show that brandy fetched higher prices than rum or whiskey, pointing to strong demand and a reputation for quality.
Although European brandies were familiar to many Americans, the real fascination centered on spirits born from local orchards, especially those producing apples and peaches. Farmers often distilled their own fruit, creating small-batch brandies that stayed close to home. One of the earliest and most enduring names in this world is Laird & Co., established in 1780 and still producing apple brandy in New Jersey. Its operations began before Great Britain admitted defeat in the Revolutionary War, giving the distillery a claim as the oldest registered operation of its kind in the country. Laird & Co. was the first registered distillery in the U.S., receiving the U.S. Department of the Treasury’s first-ever commercial distillery license (License No. 1).
The popularity of domestic brandy in early America is also intertwined with the legend of Johnny Appleseed — Jonathan Chapman. Schoolbooks and animated films painted him as a wandering planter scattering edible apples across the frontier. The truth is more interesting. The apple trees Chapman cultivated across Pennsylvania, Ohio, Indiana, and Illinois were not meant for eating. They produced small, sharp fruit — “spitters” — that were undesirable raw but ideal for hard cider. That cider, in turn, often found its way into the still, becoming apple brandy. Chapman had admirers not because he provided lunchbox fruit, but because he enriched communities with the raw material for cider and brandy.
This homegrown spirit held its place well into the twentieth century. But as the country lurched toward Prohibition, temperance advocates destroyed orchards across the nation, knowing full well that fruit became brandy just as grain became whiskey. After Repeal in 1933, whiskey distillers restarted operations swiftly. Orchard-based spirits were slower to recover: replacing entire orchards takes years, and many producers shifted to grain distillation simply because it was faster and required fewer long-term agricultural commitments.
Although Prohibition weakened America’s domestic brandy tradition, foreign brandy — especially French — found a vast audience. The United States eventually became the world’s largest consumer by volume.
Then, in 2014, deep in the heart of Louisville — barely a short drive from the city’s historic Whiskey Row — Copper & Kings American Brandy Distillery opened its doors. There, within the capital of bourbon culture, domestic brandy took a big step into the spotlight. In 2020, Constellation Brands acquired the distillery, and in August 2025 it changed hands again, this time purchased by Bourdon Spirits Company.
Rob Bourdon, formerly Sales Director at Tennessee Distilling Group, stepped in as Chief Executive Officer. He inherited warehouses stocked with a sweeping array of barrels: sourced brandy, Copper & Kings own distillates, and bourbon, much of it resting in brandy casks. Much of the house-made brandy had been crafted under the hand of distiller Brandon O’Daniel, whose work helped define Copper & Kings early profile. When Constellation sold the distillery, O’Daniel chose to remain with the parent company, leaving Bourdon both a legacy to uphold and a blank slate on which to sketch a new identity.
With ample stock on hand, Bourdon pushed for a refreshed direction — updated blending choices, revised bottling proofs, and prices more aligned with everyday access than with luxury positioning. By the fall of 2025, Copper & Kings introduced three core offerings shaped under the new leadership: a six-year VSOP grape brandy, a six-year Bottled-in-Bond apple brandy, and a Kentucky Straight Bourbon finished in apple brandy casks. Drinkhacker received bottles of each for evaluation.
Copper & Kings earned respect under O’Daniel’s expertise, but a new chapter has begun. How far can the distillery go with its revitalized vision? What possibilities matriculate when a spirit once considered “America’s original” regains momentum? And where might Copper & Kings steer this revived tradition next?
Let’s pour a few glasses and leave the answers waiting for you.
Copper & Kings VSOP Brandy 6 Years Old Review
Copper & Kings has offered well-matured American brandy for years, but this release marks the first time the distillery has placed an age statement directly on the front label. As is standard with many American whiskies, the declaration states that the contents rested for no fewer than six years. For the first time, the team also adopted the “VSOP” designation — terminology far more common in Cognac. While VSOP signifies a minimum of four years, Copper & Kings crosses that benchmark by a clear margin.
Ownership changed hands in August 2025 when Bourdon Spirits acquired the distillery. Any adjustments to technique from this point forward remain to be seen, but the brandy now being bottled was laid down during the tenure of former distiller Brandon O’Daniel. One of the great strengths of the house has long been the diversity of the stock O’Daniel put down. Although he had preferred standards, he also varied key inputs to create a wide catalog of possible profiles for blending. As a result, Bourdon Spirits inherited barrels shaped by different yeasts, still proofs, entry proofs, fermentation temperatures, fruit choices, and cooperage styles.
Batch #1 of this VSOP expression comes from three grape varieties fermented together into a single wine: French Colombard, Chenin Blanc, and Muscat. Colombard tends to offer gentle sweetness with firm acidity, usually around 18–20 Brix. Chenin Blanc leans sweeter and even more acidic at roughly 20–24 Brix. Muscat contributes high sugar and comparatively modest acidity, often reaching 22–28 Brix. The proportions remain undisclosed. All grapes are sourced from California — primarily the Central Valley and the central coast, with some lots from farther north.
Historically, the distillery has relied on assorted white wine dry yeasts, particularly prises de mousse and often VIN13. While the specific strain of prises de mousse used here is not specified, this group of Saccharomyces bayanus yeasts excels under the demanding conditions typical of sparkling wine secondary fermentation. Fermentation in Louisville proceeds slowly, commonly between 62–64°F (sometimes dipping to 58°F), producing wine around 13% ABV. Closed-top fermentation generally spans 3–4 weeks in concrete tanks, with stainless steel used less frequently.
Distillation takes place on large alembic copper pot stills fabricated half a mile away by Vendome Copper & Brass Works. Proof varies depending on the batch, but distillate usually exits in the neighborhood of 128–135 proof and goes into barrels at that strength without dilution. For this VSOP, the spirit ages in 53-gallon barrels, roughly 90% of which are once-used bourbon casks from assorted Kentucky producers. The other 10% consists of new charred American oak from Kelvin Cooperage, prepared with a medium toast and #2 char. The staves for these new barrels were air-dried for six months, then kiln-dried. All lots rest at least six years in a mix of palletized storage and a semi-subterranean rickhouse about three-quarters below ground, which allows for a naturally moderated environment.
Copper & Kings has long incorporated “sonic aging” as an additional influence: during maturation, barrels are exposed to bass-heavy music at high volume (90-120 dB), causing the liquid to continually shift inside the casks rather than stay motionless. After the barrels are harvested, natural batch strength tends to fall between 135–139 proof. A notable move under Bourdon’s leadership was bottling this flagship release at 86 proof instead of the previous 90. Proofing down is handled slowly over 1-3 weeks. Another significant departure: pricing the flagship grape brandy at just $20. Bourdon sought to create something bartenders would adopt readily and newcomers could explore without hesitation, and the pricing clearly aligns with that aim.
On the nose, the brandy opens with the aroma of a lit beeswax candle, complete with the scent of melted wax pooling around the wick. Peach gummies, sultanas, and fully ripe cantaloupe contribute to a potent fruit-forward profile. That cantaloupe note, in particular, primes the mind for a mouthfeel with considerable heft. The palate continues the fruit trend but shifts to different varieties: grapefruit pulp and pineapple take the lead, followed by jasmine and tamarind on the mid-palate. The assortment of flavors is complex, though the texture is somewhat modest, landing a touch lighter than the aromatic cues suggest.
The finish presents a flavor remarkably close to Lipton Citrus Iced Green Tea, then moves into a hint of pear. As it tapers off, a quiet mineral touch — similar to limestone gravel dust — appears, ending with a trace of peach pit.
As a first release under new stewardship, this is an assured start. A touch more viscosity on the palate would have elevated the experience, but considering the proof and the very modest asking price, the result is easy to appreciate. The spirit works well on its own and serves as a highly economical choice for cocktails. Bourdon set out to create something appealing to a broader audience, and the effort delivers. 86 proof. B+ / $20
Copper & Kings Bottled in Bond Apple Brandy Review
In keeping with the traditions that shaped early American distilling — and the apple-driven legacy tied to Johnny Appleseed — Copper & Kings presents a bottled-in-bond apple brandy distilled entirely from Michigan fruit. The apples come from growers near Grand Rapids and Paw Paw and include 15-18 varietals of culinary and cider apples ranging from sharp to semi-sharp. For most apple fermentations, the distillery uses chaptalization: adding sugar to the fresh juice so that yeast can take it to a higher alcohol content without altering sweetness. Although Copper & Kings has occasionally released unchaptalized apple brandy, the bulk of its apple-brandy stock was fortified with brown sugar during fermentation. While unfortified apple wine typically stops at around 10–11% ABV, chaptalization lets them reach roughly 13% ABV prior to distillation.
Like the VSOP grape brandy, this bonded release rests for at least six years in a cooperage mix composed of about 90% ex-bourbon barrels and 10% new charred American oak. Batch #1 arrives at the federally required 100 proof and carries a six-year age statement — all for $25.
The nose opens with the scent of Honeycrisp juice and light brown sugar. With a few minutes in the glass, vanilla bean ice cream, ripe peaches, and honeysuckle join in. The dominance of used cooperage is apparent: wood influence stays minimal, letting the fruit lead the show. Despite the proof, the aromatics feel approachable and lean far away from anything sharp or edgy; bourbon drinkers might easily guess something far milder in proof.
On the palate, the texture at first feels surprisingly airy for a 100 proof spirit, but viscosity increases quickly as spice builds. Flavors suggest a not-too-sweet homemade apple-pie filling — nothing like the sugary canned version — along with buttery pie crust. Midway through, a brief hit of flat Sprite appears before yielding to black pepper and burnt caramel. The finish carries the feel of baked red apple peel with a bit of bitterness, followed by a well-chewed stick of cinnamon gum. As it fades, a final imprint of black pepper meets a small amount of oak tannin.
Taken together, this is a well-made apple brandy with honest proof and an even stronger price point. Much of the category — Calvados included— lands between 80 and 86 proof, and many options at comparable ages sit well below this bottling’s strength. VSOP Calvados commonly rests for about five years, while Copper & Kings slightly exceeds that timeframe and does so at a far more favorable proof point. When age, alcohol content, and cost are weighed side by side, this release stands out in the broader landscape. Even within the American market, it compares favorably with Laird’s Bonded, which typically costs several dollars more.
Value aside, the spirit itself is worthy of attention: enjoyable neat and an excellent candidate for cocktails such as a Jack Rose. It is easy to imagine Johnny Appleseed raising a glass to this one. 100 proof. B+ / $25 [BUY IT NOW FROM FROOTBAT]
Copper & Kings Kentucky Straight Bourbon Review (2025)
Although Copper & Kings resides in a city and state that revolve around bourbon, the distillery has long insisted that its mission is not to trail behind Kentucky’s flagship spirit but to champion American brandy. Even so, it makes sound sense for the team to offer bourbon finished in barrels from their own brandy program — bourbon refined in casks seasoned by fruit distillate crafted in the very heart of “bourbon country.”
Under Rob Bourdon’s leadership, Batch #1 of Copper & Kings Kentucky Straight Bourbon brings together four age groups, each portion finished in Copper & Kings apple brandy barrels for as long as three years. The 2025 batch is composed of 60% bourbon aged 5 years, 20% aged 10 years, 16% aged 12 years, and 4% aged 17 years. As Bourdon emphasizes, when an age statement appears on a Copper & Kings label or marketing, it refers strictly to the age of the original bourbon, not including the time spent in finishing casks. In this case, 40% of the blend consists of bourbon at least 10 years old — followed by extended time in apple brandy barrels.
The 5-year component comes from Bardstown Bourbon Company. For the remaining portions, Copper & Kings does not disclose distillery sources. However, during the Constellation Brands era, a 2023 and 2024 release featured a blend that included Bardstown Bourbon Company alongside two undisclosed Kentucky bourbons: one with a mashbill of 74% corn, 18% rye, and 8% malted barley aged 10 years, and another with a mashbill of 78% corn, 10% rye, and 12% malted barley aged 15 years. Bourdon almost certainly inherited overlapping stocks. Given the elapsed time, it is highly probable that the 17-year element in this 2025 blend shares roots with the earlier 74/18/8 bourbon, while the 12-year component most likely stems from the former 78/10/12 stock. That leaves the 10-year component the lone wildcard. Bourdon confirmed only that all spirits originate from major Kentucky distilleries.
After primary maturation, the bourbon entered the apple brandy barrels at 130 proof. Those finishing casks previously held apple brandy for 6 years, creating a promising environment for secondary maturation. The earlier Constellation-era blend received wide praise, but Bourdon took his own direction by putting together a new profile, reducing the bottling strength to 86 proof to broaden its appeal, and pricing the bottle at an eye-catching $30. Even before the cork is pulled, that combination — mature bourbon, extended finishing, and a remarkably low price — is hard to overlook.
The nose begins with the scent of well-oxidized dried apple slices and slightly leathery tones, followed by cinnamon bark. As the glass opens, toasted almond and anise seed contribute added character. It is rare to encounter aromatics this engaging at such a modest price.
The palate starts with soft leather and cardamom. The mid-palate shifts toward an herbal-tea blend of chamomile touched with mint. A return of the oxidized apple note ties the experience back to the aromatics. The mouthfeel carries a medium level of viscosity, neither thin nor heavy. As the finish sets in, apricot skin appears alongside pink peppercorn and a light amount of eucalyptus. The final moments dry out with the flavor of unsweetened dehydrated apple chips.
Taken as a whole, this is a strong showing — quality blending, extended finishing, and a profile that supports relaxed sipping. Although the higher-proof 2023 & 2024 releases remains my preference, judging the 2025 batch on its own merits reveals a well-constructed bottle with plenty to appreciate. Seasoned whiskey drinkers will find plenty of interest here, and newcomers seeking well-aged Kentucky bourbon at an approachable price will struggle to find comparable value. At $30, it is a remarkably smart buy. 86 proof. A- / $30
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