Review: 2022 Quinta Nova Douro Unoaked

Recently, Rob reviewed (and enjoyed) Portugal-based Quinta Nova’s Reserva Terroir Red, which is a blend of Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca, Tinta Roriz (Tempranillo), and Tinto Cão. This wine has the same four grapes in it  (plus some Tinta Amarela) — though it’s from a prior vintage — but it has a twist: It’s not aged in oak. For some reason, it also appears in a Bordeaux style bottle instead of the Burgundy bottle featured in the Reserva Terroir.

Without the impact of the barrel, Quinta Nova allows the pure essence of the vineyard — and the grape — to shine through. It may be a polarizing wine, doughy up top with a jammy punch of crushed blueberries and cherries dominant. Chewy notes of candied coconut — think Mounds candy bars — quickly come into focus, with supporting flavors that move more toward boysenberry jam.

This is one of those wines that feels fresh at first, but loses its luster the more you sip. There’s no tannic structure and ultimately nothing to back up the fruit, which ultimately starts to feel a lot like an unaged Port — moderately sweet but without much else waiting in the wings. A hint of violets on the finish give some level of floral nuance, but it’s not much to hang on to.

B / $26

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