Review: Wines of Chemistry, 2025 Releases

We first encountered the Chemistry value wine brand — a partnership between the Oregon wineries Stoller and Chehalem — with its 2019 vintages. Now we’re back with a new look at two wines from the 2023 vintage and a nonvintage sparkling wine released alongside them. Note that some things have evolved in the last four years, as these wines are now mostly Oregon designated instead of hailing exclusively from Willamette. Labels have also changed in 2025. Thoughts follow.

NV Chemistry Blanc de Blancs Willamette Valley – A tart, chardonnay-driven sparkler, melding green apple with lemon notes to create a very crisp and dry experience. Hints of melon emerge as the wine warms up a touch, with touches of orange blossoms ringing the finish. The wine ultimately evokes a more complex character than its tart attack would suggest, eventually developing a crowd-pleasing versatility. A- / $25

2023 Chemistry Pinot Gris Oregon – Initially a touch dusty, this wine takes its time to open up, but a bit of air and some warmth help it show a range of fruit flavors. While fairly blunt, the ultimately thick layer of fruit works. Tropical notes are heavy here, with pineapple prominent, followed by white peach and a dusting of honeysuckle petals. With a nice cheese plate this acquits itself admirably, its moderate acidity adding balance to creamier, fattier fare. B+ / $25

2023 Chemistry Pinot Noir Oregon – A major shift from the 2019 Willamette-designated edition, this is a quite dense wine, chewy with stewed fruits and a thick vein of black berries — currants and Maraska cherries. A spiced apple cider character adds a festive quality. Increasingly chocolatey as it develops, the wine evokes thoughts more akin to a youthful cabernet than an elegant pinot noir, though it’s devoid of any kind of tannic structure that might temper the sometimes aggressive sweetness. B / $25

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