Review: Wines of Early Mountain, Late 2025 Releases
Earlier this year, Christopher returned to Early Mountain Vineyards, a stalwart of the “just about to arrive/emerging wine region of Virginia” people (usually the same ones) have been championing for over a decade. His reviews served as confirmation that, yes, Virginia is still emerging gracefully, and there are still gems to be found and enjoyed from around the commonwealth. We are trying a few more bottles from the vineyard right before Thanksgiving: possibly for further insight, certainly for enhanced enjoyment, definitely for your consideration.
2022 Early Mountain Novum Review
A blend of 43% Cabernet Franc, 30% Merlot, and 27% Tannat, because subtlety is apparently overrated. It opens with brooding overtones of ripe black plum and lavender, but with time and air it settles down and eventually allows a mild note of milk chocolate to emerge. The palate is lush and a bit theatrical, with violet drifting in halfway through to temper some of the dark fruit. By the finish, the mood shifts: sage, rosemary, and an overtone of tobacco leaf perk up the finish nicely. It is big-hearted but disciplined and will elevate any meal that requires a bit of muscle without sacrificing elegance and complexity. A- / $60
2022 Early Mountain Petit Manseng Review
In the glass, it shines like late-day sunlight sneaking through old curtains: golden yellow slowly tipping into a bronze hue. The nose is directly from a country pantry, with waves of butterscotch, orange marmalade and crystallized ginger all slowly appearing with time in the glass. The palate makes a slow transition from rustic to tropical, with notes of peach and lemon zest on a crisp and dry finish featuring just a touch of salinity and honeysuckle as the tropical notes fade. There’s plenty of juicy acidity to keep things from sliding out of balance. It’s quite versatile, and if there’s contemplation over seafood or pork as the main course this year at Thanksgiving, you’ll find no fault here with this as a serviceable accompaniment. A- / $65
2021 Early Mountain RISE Review
A red blend of 58% Merlot, 17% Petit Verdot, 15% Tannat, and 10% Cabernet Franc harvested from Early Mountain’s top vineyards. More reserved compared to its Novum counterpart, with a nose offering clove, baking spices and red plum, accented by faint traces of sage and green pepper. On the palate, the generosity unfolds: blackberry, cassis, cocoa, cedar, and tobacco leaf all weave together eloquently, but never with one note dominating over the other. The tannins are firm, their grip assured but never harsh, while a lively acidity keeps everything bright and dynamic. There is depth and structure present, and a clear promise of even further evolution. It’s already elegant in its youth, but with a few years of cellar time, this wine will gather itself into something truly exceptional. It’s ready now if you’re willing, but it is on its way to becoming something quietly profound. B+ / $150
2021 Early Mountain Quaker Run Vineyard Cabernet Franc Review (second opinion)
The first impression leans heavily on a steady blend of cherry, boysenberry, and raspberry, all of which move along in harmony. With time in the glass, a greater dimension emerges, with faint traces of pencil shavings and sandalwood lending a quiet sophistication, though patience is required to arrive at this point. The cherry note carries through firmly on the palate, is joined by a light touch of baking spice, which brings warmth without upsetting the balance. As the finish unfolds, those baking spices return alongside a gentle note of milk chocolate, helping to create a soft landing. It’s a Cabernet Franc avoiding louder tendencies found elsewhere, opting for composure and restraint. Christopher marked this one a B in his review, a fair assessment. It’s steady but could use a bit more aging to create a bit of spectacle. B / $85
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