Review: Row 94 Full Proof Bourbon
Country star Dierks Bentley came to know bourbon the way many of us do — through the haze of cheap, bottom-shelf bottles that fueled late nights and questionable decisions. It was “Well, well, whiskey,” and not much else. But just as Bentley’s music matured from the carefree twang of Free and Easy to the heartfelt depth of Bourbon in Kentucky, so too did his appreciation for America’s native spirit.
Over the years, Bentley fine-tuned more than just his sound — he honed his taste, developed a genuine love for quality bourbon, and in September 2024, launched his own whiskey label: Row 94 Whiskey. The brand debuted with a solid foundation, followed by Row 94 Broken Branches in June 2025 — an oak stave-finished release that showed Bentley was serious about nuance, not just name recognition.
Then came September 2025, and with it, a full-throttle third release: Row 94 Full Proof Kentucky Straight Bourbon. Distilled at the Green River Distilling Co. (DSP-KY-10) in Owensboro, Kentucky, this batch of Full Proof comes from a blend of 32 barrels — each filled with the standard Owensboro mashbill: 70% corn, 21% winter rye, and 9% six-row malted barley.
The whiskey was barreled at 120 proof using a #4 char and matured for 5 years and 10 months in Owensboro’s historic clay-tile rickhouses. These rickhouses, built in the late 1930s, were designed for heat-cycling with large industrial blowers — though these features are no longer used, their unique clay tile construction (originally produced by Dal-Tile in Lewisport, Kentucky) still plays a quiet but significant role in how the whiskey ages. Interestingly, the specific tiles used in these rickhouses are no longer manufactured, making each aging season something of a time capsule.
When it came time to bottle Row 94 Full Proof, Bentley and his team kept it honest: The whiskey was harvested at around 125 proof and proofed down just slightly — to the original barrel-entry proof of 120. And while “full proof” isn’t a legally defined term, this bottling meets the most widely accepted definition: bottled at barrel entry proof. It’s not cask strength, but it’s close — more than an arbitrary marking gimmick.
That’s saying something, especially in the world of celebrity whiskey. Far too many fall flat: overpriced, underwhelming, and banking on star power instead of spirit character. But Bentley approached Row 94 with a different mission: to create a bourbon he’d be proud to pour for his closest friends — no spotlight needed. When asked about the three expressions, Bentley admitted he enjoys them all, but he’s especially excited to share Row 94 Full Proof.
So let’s raise a glass to a man who once sang “what was I thinking,” but now knows exactly what he’s drinking. Let’s dig into what Dyer’s is drinking!
Row 94 Full Proof Bourbon Review
The nose begins with a quiet suggestion of honey graham crackers and a faint touch of fresh ginger. These two notes are easy to identify, but their presence is relatively soft. After a few minutes in the glass, a trace of grilled peaches drifts upward, followed by a hint of stale caramel corn. Each aroma stands on its own, yet none carry much strength. Altogether, the aroma profile feels subdued and underdelivers.
Thankfully, the tasting experience heads in a more dynamic direction. Black licorice hits early, quickly followed by brandied cherries, orange zest, and a sprinkle of cardamom. The flavor is engaging and develops well across the palate, carried by a medium-paced mouthfeel that gives everything room to unfold.
Moving into the finish, Row 94 Full Proof takes another turn. Leather and black cherry pie — with a slightly scorched crust — take the lead. The dark cherry adds a bit of sweetness, which is nicely balanced by the charred crust note. It all wraps up with a clean flash of black pepper.
In the end, Row 94 Full Proof delivers a satisfying experience for those more interested in flavor than aroma. The nose may fall short, but the tasting profile is where this bourbon shines. At $54, it’s priced very reasonably — especially when compared to the steeper, less justified cost of the earlier Broken Branches release. In accord with the debut release from Row 94, it’s good to see the Full Proof expression return to a price point that matches both its specs and its quality. For the money, this is a solid pick.
120 proof.
B+ / $54
The post Review: Row 94 Full Proof Bourbon appeared first on Drinkhacker: The Insider’s Guide to Good Drinking.