Review: Wines of Bulichella, 2025 Releases
Bulichella has an unusual story compared to what you usually hear from Tuscan wine operations. The brand dates back to 1983, the brainchild of Japanese Hideyuki Miyakawa and the woman he met while working in Italy in 1960, Maria Luisa Bassano. Together they started what would become a family winery, now in its third generation after more than 40 years of operation.
In a recent Zoom tasting with Nicolò Miyakawa, Hideyuki’s grandson and a core part of the family operation, we tasted through five current releases from Bulichella, each of which features a hand-drawn label produced by Nico and his cousin.
2024 Bulichella Sol Sera Rose IGT – 100% rose of syrah. Crisp and clean, and not something I would associate with syrah immediately, this wine exudes florals and strawberry notes in equal proportions, with late-game notes of lemon curd coming into focus. Ample acidity keeps any unctuous candylike or perfumed notes from gaining prominence, though the finish offers a nod to the springtime garden — never unwelcome. A- / $23
2024 Bulichella Tuscanio Vermentino IGT – Crisp and lemony, with classic minerality in the form of gravelly slate and some ruddier clay-like characteristics. Bracing and acidic, this is a flexible, easy-drinking offering that veers into lime late in the game, which only enhances the cleansing, citrusy qualities of the wine. So bright and enjoyable — it pairs well with just about anything. A / $50
2022 Bulichella Rubino IGT – A Supertuscan blend of sangiovese, merlot, cabernet sauvignon, and cabernet franc. Surprisingly bright and approachable, with fruity cherry notes dominating and backed up by notes of orange peels and blossoms. The wine takes turns toward raspberry notes before folding in some nutmeg for good measure, finishing with red flower petals. Light on its feet, it’s quite a summery wine that is wholly unexpected for a Supertuscan. A- / $23
2020 Bulichella Coldipietrerosse DOCG – 100% cabernet. Still developing, this wine has ample grip and tannin, with insistent notes of blackberry, anise, and plenty of balsamic on display. While the fruit is intense, the dark chocolate notes in the mix are even more aggressive, tempering the heavy licorice notes on display, but only to a degree. The finish is a reprise of pruny balsamic, filtered through a layer of wet gravel. B / $59
2020 Bulichella Montecristo DOCG – Described as Bulichella’s “most Japanese project,” this is a merlot-heavy (70%) Bordeaux blend with a surprising umami bent that’s evident from the start. Heavy mushroom and soy notes bounce off a thick balsamic character, while an underbelly that mixes grapefruit peel and tanned leather gives the wine a real austerity. What’s missing is some needed gravitas on the body, which is doughy and overcooked, leading to a finish that offers heavy notes of stewed fruit — cherries, plum, and rhubarb. Again that balsamic quality rears its head, becoming a bit gritty on the back end. The umami lingers, however, and I do get the “Japanese” comment. B / $134
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