Review: Middle West Spirits Calvados Cask-Finished Whiskey

When it comes to American whiskey, the world’s attention naturally gravitates toward Kentucky. Bardstown, Kentucky, proudly carries the title “Bourbon Capital of the World,” and with good reason — Kentucky has long been the epicenter of bourbon production, steeped in history and tradition. Yet, just a few hours north, a quieter but no less impressive whiskey scene has been flourishing in Columbus, Ohio. Over recent years, Columbus has become one of the best whiskey cities in America, making it an enticing choice for enthusiasts seeking a “whiskey weekend getaway” that involves visits to multiple quality distilleries outside the central Kentucky hub.

While central Kentucky is dotted with numerous celebrated distilleries, Columbus boasts its own roster of nationally recognized producers. Among them are High Bank Distillery, Watershed Distillery, Echo Spirits Distilling, and Middle West Spirits. Not far to the south, in Ashville, Ohio, M&O Spirits has been making waves as a standout micro-distillery. Middle West Spirits, in particular, has garnered headlines not only for its use of dark pumpernickel rye but also for its recent acquisition of Colorado’s Old Elk Distillery in May 2025, signaling its growing influence in the American whiskey world.

In October 2024, the Columbus distillery released a blended expression featuring pumpernickel rye — the Middle West Double Cask Collection Napoleon Calvados Cask-Finished Whiskey. This release includes a blend of 40 barrels: 20 barrels of soft red winter wheat whiskey and 20 barrels of dark pumpernickel rye whiskey, each aged between five and five and a half years. The 53-gallon barrels, sourced from Speyside Cooperage in Jackson, Ohio, sport a combination of medium and high toasts with char levels #3 and #4. All barrels were filled at 120 proof.

The dark pumpernickel rye mashbill is particularly unique, consisting of 80% dark pumpernickel rye, 5% Ohio-grown soft red winter wheat, 10% non-GMO open-pollinated yellow corn, and 5% 2-row malted barley. The wheat whiskey counterpart is composed of 95% Ohio-grown soft red winter wheat and 5% 2-row malted barley. Both mashbills undergo a 72-hour closed-top fermentation with proprietary yeast strains before being distilled on a Vendome column still and doubler, yielding distillate at 135 proof.

Once blended, the whiskey rested briefly before being transferred into Napoleon Calvados casks for an additional one to two years of maturation, entering the casks at a natural batch proof of 123. The choice of finishing casks is where the whiskey truly distinguishes itself. Calvados, a regionally protected brandy from Normandy in northwestern France, is traditionally distilled from fermented apples, sometimes with a touch of pears. The casks Middle West used are 60-gallon Napoleon Calvados barrels that previously held 100% apple brandy aged for eight years — longer than the minimum six-year aging requirement for the Napoleon designation, which is akin to the “XO” grade in Cognac or Armagnac.

While American whiskey production has seen myriad finishing experiments, Calvados remains one of the more underexplored options, making Middle West’s approach both forward-thinking and rare.

Middle West Spirits has already earned its place in the spotlight as the first American distillery to employ dark pumpernickel rye in its mashbill. Now, with the Double Cask Collection Napoleon Calvados Cask-Finished Whiskey, they offer a product that is truly unique in both grain composition and finishing technique. Unique, indeed, but more importantly — is the final product uniquely exceptional? It’s time to pour a glass and discover for ourselves.

Middle West Spirits Calvados Cask-Finished Whiskey Review

The nose opens with a clear impression of semi-sweet chocolate chips and toffee. As the initial sweetness subsides, notes of unsweetened cinnamon applesauce and smoked paprika come forward. While the opening is slightly sweet, the overall character of the nose leans more grounded and rustic. It’s worth noting for those unfamiliar with Calvados that cider apples — unlike table apples — are typically not sweet. In fact, their lower sugar content and higher tannin levels contribute much more character, and those tannins are present here in a noticeable and satisfying way.

On the palate, there’s an immediate rush of cinnamon that vanishes almost as quickly as it appears, giving way to a fleeting but playful note of a Tootsie Caramel Apple Pop. This quickly recedes into more assertive flavors: dark chocolate, worn leather, and a subtle echo of cinnamon. The mouthfeel is strikingly dry — noticeably so — leaving the tongue with a parched, almost austere sensation.

The finish carries a smoky note of burnt brown sugar, followed by a wave of unsweetened chai tea. This spiced element holds firm for a moment before gently fading into a final impression of dark chocolate. The drying sensation and recurring chocolate notes are standout features that set this whiskey apart. The sweet elements are brief, but the dryness persists in a way that’s both unusual and memorable.

Altogether, this is one of the more distinctive and engaging finished whiskeys I’ve tried in some time. That said, the $130 price tag raises questions, especially considering the base whiskey was only five years old before finishing. However, the use of a high-quality Napoleon Calvados cask — an uncommon and clearly deliberate choice — adds significant value to the experience. While the cost may give thoughtful buyers a moment of hesitation, I’m ultimately pleased with and impressed by what Middle West has achieved here.

123.8 proof.

A- / $130

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