Review: 2021 Ancient Peaks Oyster Ridge and Pearl Cabernet Sauvignon

As the weather (barely) starts to cool, we’re looking forward to heartier wines that stick to the ribs. Here’s a pair from our pals at Paso Robles-based Ancient Peaks that could fit the bill.

2021 Ancient Peaks Oyster Ridge Paso Robles – A blend of 69% cabernet sauvignon, 20% cabernet franc, 5% petit verdot, 3% merlot, and 3% malbec. Quite well-realized, this Bordeaux style blend could pass for the Old World, showcasing a dense layer of earth and some gritty anise that counterbalances the black fruit in the mix, featuring heavy notes of cassis and overripe plum, culminating in notes of bittersweet chocolate, with nutmeg grated over the top. Rather youthful and tannic today, the bones of the wine are solid, indicating that a few years in the cellar may help this already impressive wine evolve into something quite special. A- / $60

2021 Ancient Peaks Pearl Cabernet Sauvignon Paso Robles Santa Margarita Ranch – This estate cabernet is exceptionally fruity, its aggressive notes of cherry and raspberry leaning quite sweet at first, heavy with overripe fruit. Tannins emerge soon after, however, layering on notes of anise, bittersweet chocolate, and grippy rhubarb. Simultaneously youthful and a bit underdeveloped, the wine remains a curiosity through to the finish, unctuous and chewy, heavy with layers of nougat, infused with baking spice. I’m not sure if the wine is still maturing or just a bit scattered. B+ / $72

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