Review: Lemon Hart & Son Original 1804 and 151 Rum
The Lemon Hart & Son rum brand gets its curious name from the nickname of the brand’s founder. Lehman “Lemon” Hart transformed his grandfather’s German-based rum import business into a blending powerhouse in the later 18th century, eventually becoming the first official supplier of rum to the British Royal Navy in 1804 (for the 150 years or so before that, they sourced from random merchants and traders).
Today, Lemon Hart claims to produce the “most historically authentic” rum on the market, sourcing and blending single estate rum from the same Demerara region of Guyana that produced the Royal Navy rations more than two centuries ago. A small batch line dubbed Redux is in the offing, but presently Lemon Hart offers a lean portfolio of classic, spiced, and overproof rum expressions. We received samples of the classic and overproof. Thoughts follow.
Lemon Hart & Son Original 1804 Rum Review
This rum, described as classic British-style, is a blend of single estate rums produced on the East Bank of the Demerara River in Guyana. Of note, the brand points out that it shows pronounced flavor when mixed with cola — which is another way of saying it’s a good mixer. And that seems to be where this one belongs. The nose is subtle with top notes of dark brown sugar and muted vanilla bean. There’s no point in waiting for it to open because those aromas don’t really change much with time in the glass. The palate is a straightforward mix of molasses and caramelized sugar with soft undertones of vanilla extract and maple taffy. The alcohol builds slightly on the midpalate, giving the finish the most energy — short-lived traces of coffee bean and treacle — in an otherwise cotton-soft sip. Clearly designed with a mixer in mind. 80 proof. B / $30
Lemon Hart & Son 151 Rum Review
When you nearly double the alcohol content of the standard Lemon Hart expression, an ordinary rum becomes something much more memorable. While many 151 rums deliver their proof in blasts of ethanol-tinged aroma and flavor, Lemon Hart finds an impressive balance beginning with a nose of toffee, dark roast coffee, and molasses. It doesn’t lurch from the glass, blooming almost as subtly as the standard offering but with significantly more depth and texture. The palate leads with rich flavors of Demerara syrup, dark berries, and sticky vanilla bean, again surprisingly balanced — elegant even — unfurling in a silky, sugary wave and evolving to cocoa and burnt sugar on the midpalate accented with a hint of woody smoke. The finish is bold with warm baking spice notes, a bit of dried apple, and sweet black tea. It drinks impressively on its own or over ice, but probably best to use it sparingly in your next rum cocktail. 151 proof. A- / $35 [BUY IT NOW FROM FROOTBAT]
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