Review: Kentucky Owl Bourbon Batch 13

After filing for bankruptcy last year, Stoli Group’s Kentucky Owl continues to fight for its survival. The historic brand revived by Dixon Dedman in 2014 and purchased by Stoli three years later leapfrogged from boutique darling to largescale, corporate NDP seemingly overnight. Despite that huge transition, it managed to deliver some impressive releases, many of which seem to have languished on shelves (no doubt due to their hefty price tags).

For their latest, and perhaps last, offering it appears we’re getting yet another pricey whiskey. Billed as the final bourbon batch release, this 13th installment is also meant to honor retired Kentucky Owl blender and Hall of Famer John Rhea and his nearly five decades of work in the bourbon industry. Prior to his retirement, John constructed the blend with five different bourbons aged between 4 and 9 years, although we’re told 8- and 9-year stock comprises the bulk of the blend. The specific bourbons or their source are not disclosed, but corn, rye, wheat, and malted barley are in the mix. It may very well be the last thing we taste from Kentucky Owl, at least under Stoli’s ownership. Let’s dig in.

Kentucky Owl Bourbon Batch 13 Review

The aroma is a little gritty and grain-forward initially. Often that’s a sign of youth that doesn’t bode well for what’s to come, but here it’s quite inviting with early notes of buttery cornbread and yeast rolls. It doesn’t take long for the sweetness to arrive with cinnamon sugar, a bit of Tootsie Roll, and praline pecans, but those rustic undertones keep things nicely balanced.

On the palate, it’s clear Rhea put his skill to work, squeezing every high note out of the component whiskeys to design an impressively full-bodied bourbon that’s also approachable at cask strength. A thick caramel foundation is accented with dark chocolate and well-roasted coffee notes that give way to brighter candied orange peel on the midpalate. The oak isn’t shy, but tannins are measured across the sip, complemented by a mild black pepper note and gentle warmth. The finish sees a flourish of baking spice before a slow fadeout of barrel char, orange zest, and chocolate fudge. I like this one better than Batch 12, but as with many of the brand’s previous releases, I’m afraid few will actually taste it at this price point.

113.6 proof.

A- / $400 [BUY IT NOW FROM FROOTBAT]

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