Review: Wines of Tenuta di Castellaro, 2025 Releases

Getting to Tenuta di Castellaro isn’t going to be easy. It’s based in Lipari, in the Aeolian Islands, which is off the coast of Sicily to the north. But getting there might be worth it, as the operation produces some outstanding wines, three of which had the good fortune to review. Thoughts follow.

2021 Tenuta di Castellaro Nero Ossidiana IGT – 90% corinto nero, 10% nero d’avola. Bright cherry and plum notes dominate this hearty, gently earthy wine, with just a touch of herbaceousness. A little time in glass helps break things up, evoking blackberry and a pinch of cocoa powder, then anise. The finish shows a more brooding character, sharp with some balsamic and a little unripe raspberry and some rhubarb notes, concluding with a reprise of tart cherry flavors. Quite a ride and well worth the trip. A / $43

2022 Tenuta di Castellaro Bianco Pomice IGT – 60% malvasia delle lipari, 40% carricante. Bright yellow in color, and surprisingly appealing, this white wine blend pours on notes of orange blossoms and honeysuckle before veering into a more perfumed character, even more floral with a touch of potpourri in the mix. The finish is bracing and acidic, with lingering touches of racy eucalyptus and lilac against a backdrop of lemon custard. Outstanding. A / $35

2019 Tenuta di Castellaro Malvasia delle Lipari Passito – A lively dessert wine made from 95% Malvasia delle Lipari, 5% Corinto. The color of a well-oxidized Sauternes, this wine is brightly honeyed, showcasing notes of walnut oil butting up against a richly sweet gingerbread, dripping with orange blossom honey, quince jellies, hints of gooseberry, and lingering notes of candied walnuts. The finish is boldly citrus-driven, heavy with apricot, laced with honeycomb notes, unctuous, jammy, and hard to put down. A- / $88 (375ml)

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