Georgian Wine Review: 2022 Rustaveli Saperavi Qvevri and 2021 Sabado Grand Aladasturi Qveri

A few months back, I found myself tasting two amber wines from Georgia, both aged in a qvevri: a massive, egg-shaped clay vessel the Georgians have been burying underground for something like 8,000 years. Which, as wine traditions go, makes Bordeaux look like a Kickstarter project. Some of these amphorae hold more than a thousand liters of wine, enough to make you wonder how many neighbors you’d need to invite over before anyone would notice the supply was running low.

The process isn’t complicated in theory: bury the clay, let grapes ferment and age inside it, and see what emerges. What usually emerges is tannic, dry, and more than happy to park itself next to grilled meat. This time around, we are trying a duo of reds, including one made from Saperavi, the thick-skinned Georgian grape that recently made a surprise cameo in a rosé from upstate New York.

2022 Shida Rustaveli Saperavi Qvevri – Pouring a deep garnet hue into the glass, the nose is rather one-dimensional and heavily reliant on blackberry, but eventually loosens up to present a whiff of wet clay and blueberries. The palate is where things get a bit more interesting, with plum and black cherry making an introduction before a sly black olive tapenade note slides in to deliver a savory streak. It’s a master class in moderation: medium body, tannins, and acidity. Nothing shouts or slouches, but everything hums along nicely. The earthy finish doesn’t drag on, but also doesn’t cut itself off mid-sentence. Call it balanced, understated, or accept that while it won’t dominate dinner, it will keep conversation flowing nicely. B+ / $28

2021 Sabado Grand Aladasturi Qveri – A light, ruby-colored wine with aromas of blackberries and cherries that unfold slowly, eventually joined by a touch of roasted plum as it evolves. On the palate, things settle into balance, with Bing cherry and plum stepping forward again through medium acidity, carrying the wine into a lingering, cherry-heavy finish. It’s engaging enough to drink on its own, but I would imagine this would complement grilled pork quite nicely. B / $23

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