Review: Wines of Viaa Carmen Delanz, 2025 Releases
Viña Carmen’s website declares that they are the oldest winery in Chile. While I’m usually pretty excited to go down the rabbit hole in an expeditious attempt to confirm the facts, today I think I’m just going to roll with it, offer up a polite nod of affirmation and enjoy two of its latest offerings. Positioned as the ultra-premium line in the winery’s portfolio, the Carmen Delanz line features two red blends originating from the Alto Jahuel and Apalta regions, both known for their distinctive terroir.
2022 Carmen Delanz Apalta Red Blend – This blend is heavily reliant on Chile’s favorite grape, Carménère, taking up 85% of the room. The rest is filled out by Cabernet Sauvignon (5%), Cabernet Franc (6%) and Syrah (4%). A rich nose of blackberry jam with a shake of white pepper that is straightforward and surprisingly approachable, as some Carménère can take a bit of time to get settled. On the palate, raspberry provides a little brightness, only to be joined by bell pepper, the grape’s calling card, and a faint trace of smoke that hovers near the dry finish. What keeps it interesting are the textures. The tannins are grippy, firm enough to keep things honest, while the medium acidity threads the flavors together without tipping them out of balance. It takes Carménère’s brawniest impulses and tames them with Cabernet Franc and Syrah. The result is a kind of hybrid: still bold, but softened just enough. Call it Bordeaux-inspired if you want, but with its swagger intact, it feels less an imitation and more like a unique and regional evolution. A- / $30
2020 Carmen Delanz Alto Jahuel – A blend of 74% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Cabernet Franc, 8% Petit Verdot, and 3% Petite Syrah. A very unsubtle nose unfolds with layers of blackberry, rose petals, blueberry and, vanilla bean. At first it seems as if it may be a bit “too much” but somehow it ends up clicking together. On the palate, notes of plum and black currant are at the forefront, with a discreet touch of baking spice on the lingering finish. Let this one sit and develop for a little while and your patience will be rewarded. B+ / $35
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