Review: A Trio of Lambrusco Wines, 2025 Releases

Lambrusco is one of those wines people think they know, but usually for maligned reasons. Either it’s remembered as a fizzy adult soda your aunt smuggled in during the Thanksgiving of 1989, or praised by some dusty Roman throwback when they weren’t busy pillaging villages or shouting at their crops. But when done well, it can serve as a nice bridge between the chilled whites and rosés of summer and heavier wines reserved for colder seasons. Today we’re trying three Lambruschi, all readily available and listed at various price points.

2024 Saint Enzo L’Originale Lambrusco Castelvetro di Modena DOC

A quick search on Saint Enzo’s reveals this Lambrusco is “produced in partnership with a prestigious winemaker in Castelvetro di Modena.” Several quality wineries fit this description, but a bit of legwork (specifically, the 4-point font on the bottle and my phone camera’s zoom function) leads me to believe this is somehow affiliated with La Piana winery or Mirco Gianaroli. Enough pseudo-sleuthing. Let’s uncork.

On the nose, there’s enough wild herbs and cherry to be alluring, grounded by a touch of salinity, preventing a slide into territory reserved for Faygo redpop. On the palate, it’s very straightforward and crisp, with the cherry accompanied by just enough acidity to give it a nice lift. However, allowing a few moments in the glass reveals a slightly different side. Notes of plum and dried herbs cut through, giving it a gamey feel that demands a rich, substantial dish be placed on the table. Very well-constructed with just enough balance between bubbles and brawn, it’s a vote of confidence showing Lambrusco can hold its own amongst its Italian peers in a conversation about sparkling wines, carrying just as much gravitas as any other varietal. A- / $80

2024 Pezzuoli Pietrascura Amabile Lambrusco

The aromas border on wintry and festive, with cinnamon, nutmeg, clove and a touch of vanilla leading the way, but hints of plum and blackberry keep things grounded. Well-structured and but never too heavy, it spreads the spiced fruit across the palate, with a slight floral and herbal influence showing up on the finish. A solid value at this price point and one to consider opening after a hearty meal on a cold evening. B / $17

2023 Botticello Dolce Rosso Lambrusco

If you’ll kindly return your attention to my introductory paragraph for a moment, you may have noticed the use of the phrase “when done well.” This is the proof that this caveat wasn’t just a decorative flourish. This is sweet, but in the way that flat cola and melted Jolly Ranchers are also sweet. The bubbles and blackberry show up half-heartedly on the palate, leaving the whole affair confusing and slightly medicinal. It’s hard to tell if this is a wine, a liquified dessert, or some sort of elaborate prank. But it also made me feel like writing a note of apology to my glassware. D / $10

The post Review: A Trio of Lambrusco Wines, 2025 Releases appeared first on Drinkhacker: The Insider’s Guide to Good Drinking.