Review: 2021 Taboadella Reserva Alfrocheiro Dao

Alfrocheiro isn’t the sort of grape that comes to mind when one thinks of Portuguese wine. Grown in Portugal, primarily in the Alentejo VR and Dão DOC regions, it is also cultivated in the Castile and León region of northwestern Spain under the name Baboso negro (loosely translated through Google as “slimy black”). Often used in blends this grape makes its debut here as a standalone wine, under either nom de plume, on the site.

On the nose, pleasant aromas of raspberry coulis and cherry arrive first, but they are quickly elbowed aside by green pepper cutting through the jam-like qualities. Things shift on the palate, with darker fruit and licorice framed by grippy tannins and, finally, notes of granite and soil, arriving towards the finish with a level of self-assurance commonly reserved for someone announcing their candidacy for political office. Despite all this bravado, the wine behaves itself. Juicy and balanced, it walks the line between bluntness and finesse without driving off the rails. This will likely age well for the next year or so, but what’s here now is persuasive enough to be enjoyed immediately and serves as a nice alternative for those looking for something a little bit different.

B+ / $35

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