Review: Bruichladdich Octomore 16.1, 16.2, and 16.3

Bruichladdich’s annual release of the three ultra-peated Octomore whiskies have arrived, and as usual Adam Hannett — now elevated to the title of master blender (though he’s also still the head distiller) — guided a collection of whisky writers through the ins and outs of this year’s production. As is the norm, these are all 5 year old expressions, with distinct differences in aging and provenance to set each of them apart.

We’ve got all the details on each release below, so let’s dive in. All three release on September 2, 2005.

Bruichladdich Octomore 16.1 Review

5 years old, as noted, bourbon-barreled in 100% first-fill barrels; peated to 101.4 ppm of phenols — quite low for the series. 100% Scottish Concerto barley. This is one of the most immediately engaging “.1” Octomore releases I’ve encountered in a while, and it hits the nose with a freshness that can be lacking in the bourbon-exclusive version of Octomore. Sweet and fruity, there’s a strong tropical bent on the nose that makes for a nice companion to the lacing of peat smoke, ringed with tobacco-adjacent greenery notes. The palate keeps the theme going, here the fruit veering more to apricot and peach notes, later segueing into almond and honey. The peat is fairly light-handed here but always waiting in the wings. When the fruity sweetness fades a bit, it roars to life with a gravelly punch evoking turned earth more than beach bonfire this year, which ultimately threatens to overpower the milk chocolate notes that arrive on the finish. 118.6 proof. A- / $205

Bruichladdich Octomore 16.2 Review

5 years old; aged in a complex configuration of oloroso and Bordeaux casks for 4 years, then finished in Madeira and Portuguese Moscatel for its final year. 101.4 ppm phenols. The finishing wine casks have had a field day with this one, creating an experience that is incredibly full of fruit and sweetness – lemon curd and loads of orange blossom honey dominate a sharp, citrus-fueled nose. The palate is incredibly sharp and wine-forward from the jump, here the fruit showing a more oxidized quality, with a hint of the apricot notes evident in 16.1. The fortified wine will not be ignored for long, though, as the finish explodes with a huge resurgence of oxidized wine mixed in with dried tea leaves. Water is particularly instructive here, though it does give the peat a peppery punch. Be prepared to linger with this one’s outsized flavor profile. 116.2 proof. B+ / $245

Bruichladdich Octomore 16.3 Review

As always, 100% Octomore Farm-grown barley, aged 5 years full term in a mix of bourbon, Sauternes, and Pedro Ximénez casks. 189.5 ppm (last year’s 15.3 was 307.2ppm for comparison). Compared to many other “.3” Octomore releases, this one’s a real softy, and the lower peat level (while still extreme) is immediately noticeable; that’s not a bad thing, as last year’s 15.3 was overwhelming. The whisky makes room for lots more beyond peat, and again that’s great, as some “.3” releases can be ashy and sullen. An immediate pop of dark chocolate and orange marmalade, wrapped in baking spice, gives the whisky a holiday vibe on the nose. The palate sees the same elements at first, plus a bold raisin character driven by that PX influence. As it develops, the peat melds with the lemony-buttery elements to create a surprisingly rich and creamy experience, almost like pastry dough left by the fireplace for a few hours. The finish evokes notes of coconut and sesame cakes, with a vein of saline. My favorite of the collection this year. 123.2 proof. A / $280

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