Tasting Virginia’s Best Wines, 2025 Releases
Roughly every other year we check out the wines of Virginia’s Shenandoah Valley, which continues to rise in prominence in no small part due to its Governor’s Cup awards, which are awarded annually to wines from the region from wine pros (not the governor of Virginia, it turns out).
We received samples of six of the winners from 2025’s competition, and our reviews follow.
2021 King Family Vineyards “Mountain Plains Red” – A blend of 45% cabernet franc, 37% merlot, and 18% petit verdot. This wine fires up immediately with a classic presentation of inky cab franc and floral merlot, with that hefty petit verdot element adding ample gravitas. Rich notes of plums and currants drive elements of anise, grilled fruit, and late-game red apple skins. Dense but not over-extracted, the fruit bomb continues as the finish builds to crescendo — which never seems to take its foot off the gas. Prepare for a long, big night. A- / $85
2017 Barboursville Vineyards “Octagon” – A well-aged blend of merlot, cabernet franc, and petit verdot, named for a mansion (not Monticello) designed by Thomas Jefferson — though it’s now in ruins — whose floor plan is pictured on the label. I gravitate to this wine because my house has an octagonal central room as well, so this is particularly fun. Quite dry but still showing plenty of fruit, the wine leans into notes of dried cherries and plums, with lingering notes of tobacco and cedar closet, and a piney quality clinging to the finish. It’s a hearty wine that evolves over time in glass to show some fresher fruit notes and even a bit of floral character, but it’s clearly built to be a component of a more serious evening. A- / $95
2023 Paradise Springs Winery Cabernet Franc Brown Bear Vineyard – Bold and stuffed with black fruit, this wine can match the density of any California cabernet or Bordeaux you’re likely to encounter. There’s a tart edge to the experience, which tempers the strong through-line of tarry currants, black cherries, and cloves, at least to a degree. This is a massive wine that will stand up to anything you could throw at it. Believe me, I tried. Licorice and some turned earth linger on a brooding, wintry finish. It could stand a few years in cellar, but no matter what I’d save it for winter. B+ / $42
2021 50 West Vineyards Aldie Heights Cuvée – 47% tannat, 44% petit verdot, 7% merlot, 2% cabernet sauvignon. This well-aged (26 months) blend leans hard into tannat, creating an experience that is thick with notes of prune, rosemary, cedar needles, and extracted blackberry notes, then laced in the late-game with a meandering balsamic quality. Tart and in-your-face, this wine never releases its grip on the palate — at least for now. Hold this in cellar for five years and let’s talk again. B+ / $70
2018 Trump Winery Sparkling Rose – 93% chardonnay, 7% pinot noir. I debated hard whether to write about this wine at all for obvious reasons, but given that (Eric) Trump Winery is the biggest vineyard in Virginia and this wine was on the list of this year’s winners, well, I decided to let the bottle speak for itself. It’s fine, honestly, a Provence-style rose that leans into floral elements of hibiscus and cherry blossoms, before settling into a more straightforward strawberry note. Surprisingly tart and mineral-heavy, the wine has a perky briskness that keeps things refreshing throughout. Solid enough, but I would never, ever buy it. B+ / $55
2023 DuCard Vineyards Cabernet Franc Vintners Reserve – Cabernet franc is the most-planted grape in Virginia now, but this wine made from feels underdeveloped and off-course for the style. Balsamic notes dominate a palate that weaves between sour vinegar and overripe fruit, heavy on plums and cherries, both candylike. The finish veers wildly into an unctuous sweetness with overtones of bubble gum. Rather off course. C- / $60
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