Review: 2021 Kaiken Ultra Malbec Mendoza

It’s hard to believe it’s been six years since we reviewed this wine, and while little has changed, Ultra no longer carries a Las Rocas designation. (It’s now made from a variety of sub-regions within Mendoza.)

For the 2021 vintage, bright blueberry and blackberry fruit zings on a surprisingly acidic palate, hinting here and there at notes of anise and rosemary, then green peppercorns. Tannins are well-represented but also well-integrated, giving the body a gravelly texture and a slightly brooding quality, quickly arriving at notes of black cherry and black tea. Perhaps a bit on the tart side on the finish, it nonetheless remains a solid value buy even at $25 (vs. $15 for the 2015 edition).

B+ / $25 

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